When formulating products, the termination of hair damage (minimization at the very least) is my primary concern. Take a look at an article I wrote regarding the causes of hair damage, how one can prevent it, and various cures/remedies for it:
HAIR DAMAGE: DEFINITION
Hair damage is essentially any condition whereby one or more of the hair structures, (cuticles, cortex, medulla, etc), are physically or chemically altered to the extent that they are unable to return to their original state. Examples of damage are:
Cuticle Loss and/or Erosion
Cuticles were designed by nature to protect the delicate inner structures of the hair, retain moisture and reflect light. They are configured like partially overlapping roof shingles, and on healthy hair, they are very tightly aligned.
When damaged, cuticles can become cracked and frayed. Some of the keratin material, (of which cuticles are composed), can dissolve and disintegrate, making the hairshaft thinner. In severe cases, entire portions of the cuticle layer can be removed altogether.
Longitudinal Rupturing
With extreme damage, the hair shaft can experience a massive crack along its length, damaging the cortex and medulla. The rupture leaves the hair fiber open and unprotected.
Fibril Disintegration
With excessive damage, the strong proteinaceous fibers of the cortex are weakened and often disintegrate. The fibers fray and give the hair shaft a ragged, unstable alignment.
EVIDENCES OF HAIR DAMAGE
The byproducts of hair damage include the following:
Loss of Elasticity & Tensile Strength
Elasticity is a measure of a hairs' ability to stretch and recover, without breaking. On average, untreated excessively curly hair should be able to stretch about 50% of its length before reaching its breaking point. When hair cannot be extended to this degree without snapping, it has lost some elasticity and tensile strength.
Breakage
Breakage is closely related to loss of elasticity. It occurs as weakened hair experiences mechanical manipulations. Even simple combing and brushing can cause significant breakage on a damaged head of hair.
Porosity/Moisture Loss
Porosity and moisture loss are close relatives. Porosity is a measurement of the ease to which the hair accepts and releases moisture and other substances. For instance, the more porous the hair, the easier it is to " take up" coloring solutions and the easier it is to air - dry. The healthier the hair, the more difficult it is for chemical solutions to penetrate and the longer it takes to air - dry the hair. Moisture loss occurs because the hair is more ready and willing to let the natural moisture escape from the inner fiber into the atmosphere. Healthy hair is well able to maintain its moisture levels. Both porosity and moisture loss are a result of cuticle damage. Simply put, the cuticle layer is no longer tightly aligned and is no longer providing adequate coverage to the inner hair shaft.
Dullness
On healthy hair, shine reflects upon a tightly aligned cuticle layer. Hair damage results in a dismantled cuticle surface, making it difficult, if not impossible, for hair to shine.
Brittleness
Hair becomes brittle when it has lost a significant degree of moisture. Cuticle and cortex damage and the porosity that results from such damage are the fundamental reasons that hair loses pliability and becomes straw-like in feel and appearance.
Splitting of Ends
Split ends are essentially longitudinal ruptures at the end of the hair shaft. Once split, these ruptures tend to travel up the hair shaft. And, because they expose the inner structures, split ends are typically dry and quite brittle.
Excessive Tangling
Hair that has suffered cuticle injury and damage to inner structures may be very difficult to comb. The frayed fibers interactions nagging, tugging and pulling one another. Both wet and dry combing is impeded.
Fly-Away Fibers
Damaged hair carries a more negative electrostatic charge than does healthy hair. Negatively - charged hair strands repel one another, producing fly - away strands, and makes hair difficult to manage over all.
Limpness/Lack of Body
Hair that has been damaged of ten won't hold curls well and does not have the
fullness and volume known as "body."
CAUSES OF DAMAGE
The sources of hair damage are many, and range from very ordinary practices and
procedures to very extreme ones.
Ultraviolet Exposures
Every day exposure to the sun affects the hair, even though it is seldom attributed to the damage of excessively curly hair textures. Ultraviolet rays from the sun can fuse the cuticle layers together, and this fusion causes the hair to be less elastic and more prone to mechanical breakage.
Mechanical Manipulations
Mechanical damage can occur when hair is combed, brushed, blown dry or styled. Infact, virtually any physical manipulation of the hair that entails even minimal tugging and pulling can damage hair. The damage caused, however, can range from slight to extreme depending on how carefully the hair is handled.
Chemical Processing
Chemical straightening, permanent waving and permanently coloring all irretrievably
alter the bond structure of hair. Whenever the bonds are affected in this way , the hair loses a degree of its tensile strength. Also, hair becomes prone to moisture loss since chemical processes lift and penetrate the cuticle. Once the cuticle layer is penetrated in this manner, some degree of moisture loss is typical.
Thermal Styling
The high temperatures of modern-day blow dryers, curling irons, flat irons, crimpers, straightening combs, can easily deplete hair of moisture. When coupled with chemical relaxing, heat styling may result in extreme hair dryness.
Shampoo
For many, the fact that simple shampooing can damage the hair is still a difficult one to accept. Nevertheless, it's true. A shampoo with a pH level higher than 5.5 will cause a pH imbalance and "rough- up" the cuticle layer. It will also strip much, if not all, of the natural oils from the hair. This sets the stage for mechanical damage because a stripped, rough cuticle layer sets the stage for considerable combing and styling damage.
Additionally, the natural intercellular cement, (which tightly binds the fibers of the cortex layer and accounts for much of hair's strength) can be dissolved by shampoo detergents to some extent . With repeated shampoos with a high pH, strong detergent formula, the break down the intercellular cement progresses. Under these circumstances, the cortex may be damaged cortex and the hair is weakened.
HAIR DAMAGE: PREVENTION
Ultraviolet Exposures
To prevent the sun's ultraviolet rays from fusing cuticle layers together, avoid exposing hair to intense sunlight. Hats or scarves should be worn when out in sunlight for extended periods of time. Also, when selecting conditioning and finishing products formulated for excessively curly hair, look for those that contain sunscreen ingredients. Such an ingredient is Para-Amino-Benzoic-Acid, (PABA).
Mechanical Manipulations
Excessively curly hair is relatively fragile, so great care should always be taken when handling it. Some suggestions are:
• Use only detangling/conditioning-formula shampoos for cleansing excessively curly hair.
• Comb hair gently, especially when it is wet. To detangle, a wide-tooth plastic or rubberized comb is the only choice.
• Deep condition the hair after shampooing, without fail. When time is of the essence, you may use a leave-in conditioner, but only one formulated specifically for African-American hair textures.
• Avoid using hair-tightening barrettes and rubberized elastic bands. Minimize the use of curling irons / heated rollers, especially when hair is not really clean. Also, ask clients to sleep in a silky cap, scarf or on a satiny pillowcase to avoid damage caused by abrasion. A silky scarf is also a good idea to prevent abrasion when wearing woolcoats and jackets. Ask your stylist to prescribe the hair care products you should use between salon visits.
Chemical Processing
• See your stylist for chemical straightening, permanent waving and permanent coloring treatments.
• The next time you see your stylist for a relaxer treatment, ask for Affirm® FiberGuard Conditioning relaxer system. It has been proven to help maintain the tensile strength and elasticity of hair during chemical processing:
Thermal Styling
To prevent extensive damage to the hair and significant moisture loss:
• Air dry chemically - treated hair if it is possible to do so and still achieve the desired style. It is best for the hair.
• If you must blow-dry, do so only after excess moisture has air-dried or been blotted from the hair. Blow drying from a soaking- wet stage stretches the hair severely and can result in extensive fibril damage, including breakage.
• Thermal style only after hair has been treated with an intensive conditioner, preferably one rich in moisturizers.
• Apply a light coating of a good thermal styling product before heat styling. A very small amount of a silicone laminate is excellent for thermal styling; it helps the styling comb/ brush glide through the hair easily, seals cuticles to reduce inter fiber snagging, and produces a great shine.
• Use only the degree of heat necessary. Implements with thermostatic controls should always be used. And, remember, properly relaxed hair requires minimal heat to achieve smooth, sleek styles.
Shampoo
• Cleanse only with high-quality conditioning/ detangling shampoos, formulated especially for excessively curly hair. Make sure that the pH of the shampoo is properly balanced, within the range of 5.5 and 6.5.
Avoid detergent formulas that strip the hair of its natural oils. Ingredients like those in the alkyl sulfates group, such as sodium lauryl sulfate, are harsh detergents. Shun shampoos containing such harsh detergents.
• While shampooing, try not to tangle the hair. Massage the shampoo into a rich lather throughout the hair and scalp, using the pads of your finger tips, not your fingernails. Be sure to rinse the hair thoroughly to remove all traces of shampoo.
HAIR DAMAGE: TREATMENTS
As indicated earlier, once hair is damaged there is no real way to completely restore it. Cutting is the only means of ridding hair of damaged areas. There are ways,
however, to make hair look, feel and handle more like healthy hair. Conditioners
play a key role in this pursuit.
The most widely - used categories of conditioners are as follows :
1. Leave-In Conditioners
These conditioners are applied sparingly after shampooing and left on the hair.
Some provide effective UV protection. Modern-day versions are lotion-like in
consistency and are quite excellent. They can moisturize dry hair, detangle, help
protect against thermal and mechanical damage, impart sheen and give hair a
soft texture.
2. Deep Penetrating Conditioners
Commonly known as substantive or intensive conditioners, this category of products penetrates the hair shaft to deposit moisturizing and/ or proteinaceous substances. They typically are left on the hair 20-30 minutes for the deepest penetration, and work to repair damaged areas, moisturize, detangle and eliminate static charge.
3. Reconstructors
Reconstructors are heavy-duty conditioners designed specifically for severely damaged hair. They typically contain micro- and macro- proteins to fill in cracks and ruptured areas on and within the hair shaft. Reconstructors may also contain polymeric agents to tightly bind the structures of the hairshaft together for the purposes of fortification and combability.
4. Moisturizers
Moisturizing Conditioners hydrate dry brittle hair and correct moisture imbalances.
5. Laminates
This category of conditioners is designed to: a) seal the cuticle layer for a glossy sheen, b) ease combing and c) ward off the style-wrecking affects of high humidity.
6. Thermal Styling/ Blow Drying Lotions
Used prior to heat styling, these conditioners help protect the hair from heat damage, reduce the force required to comb or brush the hair during blow-drying, provide sheen and eliminate static charge.
7. Finishing Conditioners
This category includes natural oils, cremes, mineral oil -based hair dressings, oil sheen sprays and laminate sprays. Such products are used to enhance sheen, manageability, and the oil-based products are sometimes used to lubricate the scalp.
8 . Pre-Chemical Conditioners
Pre-chemical Conditioners are sold as integral parts of some relaxer systems. These conditioners are especially formulated to deep condition and repair the hair during chemical processing. Depending upon the brand, a Pre-Chemical Conditioner will also leave hair with an extraordinarily silky texture and luster.
9. Post-Chemical Conditioners
Post-chemical Conditioners are also sold as integral parts of some relaxer systems. They work to sustain and augment the deep conditioning treatment that the Pre-Conditioner effected. Post-chemical Conditioners also help normalize and re-balance the pH of the hair.
On the chart that follows, the various types and evidences of damage are listed.
Specific treatments are recommended. While these listings are not exhaustive, they
provide a good starting point for addressing the special needs of damaged hair.
hairdamage.pdf
