Conditioning: June 2008 Archives

How Conditioners Can Help Repair Chemical-Related Damage

In "Conditioning the Hair, Part II", we discussed how combing and the weather can damage the hair and how conditioners can help. Here, we take a look at chemicals, in part three of this four-part series.

Relaxers contain sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, lithium hydroxide or guanidine hydroxide as active ingredients. (To date, sodium hydroxide and guanidine hydroxide are the most effective straightening agents.) Relaxers work by changing a third of the cystine bonds into lanthionine bonds, and in the process, the hair experiences a twelve-to-fourteen percent loss in tensile strength.

Permanent waves contain ammonium thioglycolate as an active ingredient and have a pH of 9.0 - 9.5 (The pH level is attained when ammonium or monethanolamine - MEA - is added to the ammonium thioglycolate creme rearrangers or boosters during manufacturing.) Ammonium thioglycolate cremes reduce (or break) 20-40 percent of cysteine (1/2 of cystine) bonds before the hair is rodded. During neutralization process, the reduced bonds are oxidized with the help of sodium bromate, reforming 80 - 85 percent of the broken bonds. Therefore, 15-20 percent of reduced (broken) cystine bonds never reform, thus causing dryness to permanently waved hair.

Permanent hair colors contain hydrogen peroxide as one the active ingredients at 20 to 40 volume concentration. As the color of the hair is permanently altered, cystine bonds are changed to cysteic acid. This process is also extremely drying to the hair.

In each of the chemical processes described above, it is important that hair be well conditioned before, during, and after the procedure and that any existing damage be repaired. Attending to the hair in this way, while it's being chemically treated, will also help eliminate combing damage. Be sure to select chemical systems that incorporate such complete conditioning features.

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In Part One of "Conditioning the Hair," four basic causes of hair damage were mentioned. In Part Two of this series, we will discuss two of those causes - combing and the weather - and what you can do as a stylist to prevent/eliminate these types of damage from occurring.

COMBING DAMAGE

Human hair is elastic but not perfectly so. Its elasticity allows it to sustain a certain degree of pulling force exerted by combing (or brushing). Many times, the pulling or combing force applied during regular and normal styling, stretches the hair beyond its limits causing breakage.

Combing force can be minimized by: using deep penetrating conditioners to detangle the hair and mend the broken areas along the hairshaft, which can snag on one another during combing; applying auxiliary products, such as leave-in conditioners if further detangling is needed to comb wet hair prior to blow drying or setting; always using a wide-tooth comb, particularly while hair is wet and most vulnerable; gently combing through the hair section by section starting at the nape and proceeding upwards towards the crown; and applying a dab of oil moisturizer or hairdress on dry hair, prior to styling.

You'll be able to gauge breakage by examining the hair left in the comb.

WEATHER-RELATED DAMAGE

The heat and ultraviolet rays from the sun have devastating effects on the hair. The heat generated by the sun dries out hair fibers and ultraviolet (UV) rays alter some of the cysteic acid bonds. This results in a weakening of the hair fiber and a small degree of color bleaching.

To combat sun-related damages, advise your clients to stay out of the sun as much as possible or cover the hair with a silk scarf when outside.

Other remedies include using an oil moisturizer or creme hairdress to help alleviate and replenish the loss of moisture from the hair or UV-absorbing or sun-screening products formulated especially for hair, containing such ingredients as para-amino benzoic acid. Some oil moisturizers or creme hairdressings contain UV absorbers. Ask your manufacturer if the brand you use contains sunscreening agents.

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