Recently in Conditioning Category

With the state of the current US financial markets the way that they are, many should be getting accustomed to wild swings in daily performance. I figured that now would be an apt time to discuss the pH of hair during relaxing. The pH of the hair goes through considerable changes during the relaxing process and it is appropriate to discuss these changes because such changes can be made to play a positive role in the art and science of relaxing hair. The following events take place before, during, and after relaxing with respect to the pH of the hair, swelling of the hair, and the state of cuticles:

In Conditioning the Hair Part Tres, we discussed how conditioners can help repair chemical related damage. In the last of this four-part series, we take an in-depth look at the various shampoos and conditioners available and their effect on excessively curly hair.

Some say, "A shampoo is a shampoo is a shampoo." This is definitely not true, particularly when it comes to excessively curly hair. Shampoos formulated for naturally straight hair are typically very drying to excessively curly hair. A top quality shampoo for this hair type must possess the following qualities:

1. It must contain very mild detergents such as cocoamphocarboxy propionate in order not to strip natural oils from the hair and especially from the scalp.

2. It must minimize combing damage by effectively detangling the hair.

3. It must have a pH range of 4.5 to 5.5 in order to maintain the natural pH balance of the hair and scalp which is in the same range. Detangling shampoos which are mild to the hair
and scalp and have a pH range of 4.5 to 5.5 are therefore the best choices for excessively curly hair.

How Conditioners Can Help Repair Chemical-Related Damage

In "Conditioning the Hair, Part II", we discussed how combing and the weather can damage the hair and how conditioners can help. Here, we take a look at chemicals, in part three of this four-part series.

Relaxers contain sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, lithium hydroxide or guanidine hydroxide as active ingredients. (To date, sodium hydroxide and guanidine hydroxide are the most effective straightening agents.) Relaxers work by changing a third of the cystine bonds into lanthionine bonds, and in the process, the hair experiences a twelve-to-fourteen percent loss in tensile strength.

Permanent waves contain ammonium thioglycolate as an active ingredient and have a pH of 9.0 - 9.5 (The pH level is attained when ammonium or monethanolamine - MEA - is added to the ammonium thioglycolate creme rearrangers or boosters during manufacturing.) Ammonium thioglycolate cremes reduce (or break) 20-40 percent of cysteine (1/2 of cystine) bonds before the hair is rodded. During neutralization process, the reduced bonds are oxidized with the help of sodium bromate, reforming 80 - 85 percent of the broken bonds. Therefore, 15-20 percent of reduced (broken) cystine bonds never reform, thus causing dryness to permanently waved hair.

Permanent hair colors contain hydrogen peroxide as one the active ingredients at 20 to 40 volume concentration. As the color of the hair is permanently altered, cystine bonds are changed to cysteic acid. This process is also extremely drying to the hair.

In each of the chemical processes described above, it is important that hair be well conditioned before, during, and after the procedure and that any existing damage be repaired. Attending to the hair in this way, while it's being chemically treated, will also help eliminate combing damage. Be sure to select chemical systems that incorporate such complete conditioning features.

cond3.pdf

In Part One of "Conditioning the Hair," four basic causes of hair damage were mentioned. In Part Two of this series, we will discuss two of those causes - combing and the weather - and what you can do as a stylist to prevent/eliminate these types of damage from occurring.

COMBING DAMAGE

Human hair is elastic but not perfectly so. Its elasticity allows it to sustain a certain degree of pulling force exerted by combing (or brushing). Many times, the pulling or combing force applied during regular and normal styling, stretches the hair beyond its limits causing breakage.

Combing force can be minimized by: using deep penetrating conditioners to detangle the hair and mend the broken areas along the hairshaft, which can snag on one another during combing; applying auxiliary products, such as leave-in conditioners if further detangling is needed to comb wet hair prior to blow drying or setting; always using a wide-tooth comb, particularly while hair is wet and most vulnerable; gently combing through the hair section by section starting at the nape and proceeding upwards towards the crown; and applying a dab of oil moisturizer or hairdress on dry hair, prior to styling.

You'll be able to gauge breakage by examining the hair left in the comb.

WEATHER-RELATED DAMAGE

The heat and ultraviolet rays from the sun have devastating effects on the hair. The heat generated by the sun dries out hair fibers and ultraviolet (UV) rays alter some of the cysteic acid bonds. This results in a weakening of the hair fiber and a small degree of color bleaching.

To combat sun-related damages, advise your clients to stay out of the sun as much as possible or cover the hair with a silk scarf when outside.

Other remedies include using an oil moisturizer or creme hairdress to help alleviate and replenish the loss of moisture from the hair or UV-absorbing or sun-screening products formulated especially for hair, containing such ingredients as para-amino benzoic acid. Some oil moisturizers or creme hairdressings contain UV absorbers. Ask your manufacturer if the brand you use contains sunscreening agents.

cond2.pdf

Happy May Day everyone... I dug up an old article I wrote for ShopTalk journal back in Febuary/March of 1990 on the right way to condition hair. I talked about several causes of hair damage and then the types of conditioners one could use to repair the damage. Cheers:

We, as hair care professionals, are engaged in the art and science of beautifying hair; a notable pursuit that has been around for centuries. Modern techniques of hair beautification range from the simple acts of shampooing, combing and brushing, to chemically treating hair with relaxers, permanent waves and/or hair coloring.

Whenever excessively curly hair is modified to a relaxed (straightened) or permanently waved state, we gain better control of hair; but in the process, we end lip damaging the hair to some extent.

There are four basic causes of hair damage: mechanical (combing/styling), shampooing, weather and chemical treatments. Each of these causes will be discussed further in future issues of ShopTalk.

Hair care professionals, whether they're stylists or chemists, are always trying to find ways of eliminating or at least minimizing the effects of hair damage. The most effective weapon against mechanical, shampooing and weather-related hair damage is proper conditioning. Damage caused by chemical treatments, especially over-processing, cannot be reversed by any kind of conditioning treatments. However, such damage can be minimized with certain state-of-the-art conditioning relaxers and permanent wave systems available in the marketplace.

PROPER CONDITIONING

What is meant by the word "conditioning?" Basically, conditioning means attempting to restore or maintain the tensile strength of hair so that it can withstand the effects of combing, brushing, shampooing, weather and, to some extend, chemical treatments. It also involves the giving of certain cosmetic properties representative of healthy hair.

The following properties of hair are the goals and evidences of effective conditioning: Ease of wet and dry combing; elimination of static electricity; minimal hair loss during wet and dry combing; soft and silky feel; minimization of porosity; extra sheen (due to the tight realignment of cuticles); improved body, and enhanced manageability. Hair chemists have an ongoing mission to formulate conditioners that address these hair properties.

It's important to keep in mind that conditioning needs of hair fibers vary according to their texture. For example, fine hair requires increased body, while coarse hair can use added softness. It's apparent, then, that one type of conditioner cannot be used on all hair textures with the best results.

Conditioners containing excessive amounts of proteins, such as reconstructors, should be used only on fine, limp hair or badly damaged hair. Conditioners containing softening agents, humectants and highly concentrated emollients, such as creme conditioners and moisturizers, should be used on medium to coarse hair or hair that is very dry.

To achieve a maximized result, sufficient amounts of conditioning agents must penetrate deep into the cortex of the hair. This occurs only under one or a combination of the following circumstances: an elevated pH, heat and time.

ELEVATED pH

The higher the pH level of hair, the more widely open are the cuticles. Although hair is in its most vulnerable state under these conditions, the opportunity for conditioners to penetrate deep into the cortex layer of the hair is at its greatest. (When cuticles are closed, it is difficult for conditioners to penetrate in this way. If they do, and extended amount of time is required.)

When relaxers or permanent wave solutions are applied to hair, the pH becomes very high (about 13.0 with relaxers and 9.5 with permanent waves). Some premium brands have protective and restorative conditioners built right into the chemical systems so that they can go to work in the hair, when they can do the most good.

Even when the chemicals are first rinsed from the hair, the pH declines only partially (down to about 10.0 with relaxers and 7.0 with permanent waves). The hair is still alkaline and the cuticles remain partially open. This represents the second best opportunity to condition the hair once again before completely closing the cuticles with neutralizing shampoos or solutions. But remember, conditioning at these times can only be accomplished with systems that provide such features.

HEAT

As the temperature of hair is increased, the greater the possibility of conditioners penetrating the cortex. As shown in Figure 1, penetration is much greater when hair is about 60-degrees centigrade than when it is at the normal environmental temperature of 25-degrees centigrade. A temperature of 60-degrees centigrade is easily achieved at the medium setting of an electric heat cap.

TIME

As the time of contact between hair and the conditioner increases, the degree of conditioner penetration into the cortex increases. As Figure 2 illustrates, the conditioning action continues to be productive up to 25-30 minutes. After that time, absorption reaches its maximum. It is safe, therefor, to conclude that conditioners should be left on the hair, with a plastic cap, for 25-30 minutes. The use of a hood dryer will enhance the conditioning effect.

cond1.pdf