Recently in Conditioning Category

I wanted stylists to get a glimpse of what our newly updated package of the KeraCare Humecto Creme Conditioner 8 oz. bottle will look like.

As I mentioned in a previous blog post, Avlon will now be filling the thicker and richer formula, that can be found in the 5 lbs. bucket, in the 8 oz and 16 oz sizes.

So please be sure that you are carrying the newest versions of the Humecto products. Hopefully you guys will now have an easier time to retail Humecto to your clients.

I briefly talked about the new revolutionary products that Avlon launched for weave care named KeraCare® for Weaves and Extensions, but I wanted to dig a little deeper and talk about each of the three products in the line with a little more depth, as well as provide stylists with some interesting scientific evidence that Avlon recently stumbled upon.

As you may already know, the line features three items, the Gentle Cleansing Shampoo, the Hair & Scalp Nutritive Conditioner, and the Leave-In Conditioning Mist.

The first item in the system, The Gentle Cleansing Shampoo, is a gentle yet effective sulfate- and amide-free formula that removes residue from the hair, and eliminates dry, flaky skin and oily build-up from the scalp. Its been designed to nourish the client's natural hair, and add the lightest touch of conditioning to the commercial hair for body, shine, and tangle-free combability. Formulated with the phyto extract, Calendula, it moisturizes the hair and soothes the scalp.

The second item in the system, The Hair & Scalp Nutritive Conditioner, contains Calendula and an exclusive quaternium conditioning blend to keep the client's natural hair hydrated and in excellent health. The commercial hair is appropriately conditioned for exceptional shine and manageability, but not weighed down or coated with heavy conditioners. It also helps control the scalp challenges of weave and braid wearers. Tea tree oil, peppermint oil, and menthol provide a refreshing tingle as the scalp is exfoliated and sloughed, and they also aide in  triggering a healthy circulation of the scalp.

The third item, The Leave-In Conditioning Mist, beautifully prepares weaves and extensions for wet-to-dry styling, providing blow-dry protection to both natural and commercial hair. It detangles for effortless combing, and features a masterful blend of moisturizing silicones and quaternium conditioners to impart optimal hydration and silkening. Calendula was also integrated into the lightweight and anti-static formula as well as an aromatherapy fragrance to enhance your client's salon experience.

With the state of the current US financial markets the way that they are, many should be getting accustomed to wild swings in daily performance. I figured that now would be an apt time to discuss the pH of hair during relaxing. The pH of the hair goes through considerable changes during the relaxing process and it is appropriate to discuss these changes because such changes can be made to play a positive role in the art and science of relaxing hair. The following events take place before, during, and after relaxing with respect to the pH of the hair, swelling of the hair, and the state of cuticles:

(From L-R; the Gentle Cleansing Shampoo, the Hair & Scalp Nutritive Conditioner, and the Leave-In Conditioning Mist)

Hair weaving and extension services are big business in professional hair care, literally, accounting for millions and millions of dollars in salon revenues. Indications are that the market will continue to grow as women opt for, at least on occasion, augmented hairstyles of varying lengths, colors and textures.

Up until now, expenditures have been concentrated in the sale of commercial hair and fees to stylists for performing these services. The care for weaved and extension styles, however, have been for the most part a disjointed affair - forcing weave wearers to search for a shampoo from one line, a conditioner from another line, and then a scalp care product from yet another.

I recently created a channel on YouTube, so from now on, please be sure to check here and my YouTube channel for new videos. Here are a few YouTube clips from the latest FiberGuard Bridge Conditioning Serum DVD:

Chapter 1:

I wanted to re-introduce everyone to the new and improved Syntonics brand. The emphasis of Syntonics will be developing solutions for hairstylists that contain natural and botanical ingredients that will functionally work in synergy to maintain the integrity of your hair and scalp while providing excellent results.

Please note that we are not just dumping natural ingredients into our products like some other brands, just for the sake of marketing. Each ingredient has been tested for effectiveness and used in a specific concentration in order to repair the scalp and hair during and after the relaxing process.

In my slides I will cover the Syntonics Relaxer System, Maintenance Products, and Finishing Products. As always, feel free to ask any questions in the comments section.

I know the taboo in the industry, that relaxing and coloring on the same day is a big no-no, but we at Avlon aren't worried about what can't be done; we are focused on bringing professional stylists new possibilities and new solutions.

Our hottest and latest solution, the FiberGuard Bridge Conditioning Serum will enable stylists to relax and color the same day when using the serum with a FiberGuard relaxer system and our MoisturColor permanent color system. I'd say over 20 years of research have gone into the creation of this tiny yet potent product.

Since you've had ample time to study my slides, I think it is time for a quiz.

The first person to answer correctly in the comments section will receive a free 8 oz. KeraCare Intensive Restorative Masque.

Now for the question:

During the relaxing process, what percentage range does the hair fiber swell upto and what does this swelling cause? (Hint: check slides 26 - 46 on the Hair Damage presentation)

Please be sure to leave your email address with your response so that I can contact you in the event that you answer correctly.

In Conditioning the Hair Part Tres, we discussed how conditioners can help repair chemical related damage. In the last of this four-part series, we take an in-depth look at the various shampoos and conditioners available and their effect on excessively curly hair.

Some say, "A shampoo is a shampoo is a shampoo." This is definitely not true, particularly when it comes to excessively curly hair. Shampoos formulated for naturally straight hair are typically very drying to excessively curly hair. A top quality shampoo for this hair type must possess the following qualities:

1. It must contain very mild detergents such as cocoamphocarboxy propionate in order not to strip natural oils from the hair and especially from the scalp.

2. It must minimize combing damage by effectively detangling the hair.

3. It must have a pH range of 4.5 to 5.5 in order to maintain the natural pH balance of the hair and scalp which is in the same range. Detangling shampoos which are mild to the hair
and scalp and have a pH range of 4.5 to 5.5 are therefore the best choices for excessively curly hair.

How Conditioners Can Help Repair Chemical-Related Damage

In "Conditioning the Hair, Part II", we discussed how combing and the weather can damage the hair and how conditioners can help. Here, we take a look at chemicals, in part three of this four-part series.

Relaxers contain sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, lithium hydroxide or guanidine hydroxide as active ingredients. (To date, sodium hydroxide and guanidine hydroxide are the most effective straightening agents.) Relaxers work by changing a third of the cystine bonds into lanthionine bonds, and in the process, the hair experiences a twelve-to-fourteen percent loss in tensile strength.

Permanent waves contain ammonium thioglycolate as an active ingredient and have a pH of 9.0 - 9.5 (The pH level is attained when ammonium or monethanolamine - MEA - is added to the ammonium thioglycolate creme rearrangers or boosters during manufacturing.) Ammonium thioglycolate cremes reduce (or break) 20-40 percent of cysteine (1/2 of cystine) bonds before the hair is rodded. During neutralization process, the reduced bonds are oxidized with the help of sodium bromate, reforming 80 - 85 percent of the broken bonds. Therefore, 15-20 percent of reduced (broken) cystine bonds never reform, thus causing dryness to permanently waved hair.

Permanent hair colors contain hydrogen peroxide as one the active ingredients at 20 to 40 volume concentration. As the color of the hair is permanently altered, cystine bonds are changed to cysteic acid. This process is also extremely drying to the hair.

In each of the chemical processes described above, it is important that hair be well conditioned before, during, and after the procedure and that any existing damage be repaired. Attending to the hair in this way, while it's being chemically treated, will also help eliminate combing damage. Be sure to select chemical systems that incorporate such complete conditioning features.

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