Formaldehyde treatments in haircare may seem new, but they actually have been common in the wool and textile industry for quite some time. The wool fiber and hair fiber share many similarities, so analysis of Formaldehyde's application to the wool fiber can be used for a basic understanding of how Formaldehyde may work on the hair fiber.
Dr. W. S. Simpson writes:
"Sidechains of ARG, LYS, TYR, TRP, HIS, cysteine, and the amide derivatives of ASP and GLU are known to be capable of reaction with formaldehyde. Some of these reactions can be bi-functional as well as mono-functional, so that new wool protein crosslinkages are likely. In addition to simple - CH2-, i.e. methylene crosslinkages, formaldehyde has a known propensity for self-condensation so that -CH2-(OCH2)n- or oxymethylene crosslinkages are feasible." (1)
Formaldehyde, Gluteraldehyde, and Glyoxal based systems are probably making crosslinks with the sidechains of amino acids in the hair fiber, rather than reacting with the sulfur-sulfur (disulfide) bonds of the cystine in hair. These crosslinks are stable for a good 3-4 months before the hair starts to revert back to its natural configuration. There is no refilling of the hair with keratin or any other elements that companies are trying to claim.
In my opinion, a significant amount of misinformation continues to exist regarding Keratin treaments, BKTs, Escovas, etc. Companies are now adapting through various methods to the growing consumer awareness, which only fuels the cycle of misinformation.
Some companies are starting to employ Formaldehyde's cousins such as Gluteraldehyde or Glyoxal in their systems and marketing that as a positive attribute. What they forget to mention is that they react with the hair in the same manner that Formaldehyde does. The compounds expose the stylists and salon patrons to the exact same health issues. Gluteraldehyde or Glyoxal may perhaps be weaker than Formaldehyde, but the companies may be using as much or even higher percentages to achieve the same effective straightening.
]]> Some companies publish misleading information about their active ingredients. They include incorrect ingredient listings or don't label their products at all. In Brazil, companies may register their product ANVISA under the 0.2% formaldehyde limit, however post-transactional analysis of the samples can yield around 5% concentration of Formaldehyde.On our side of the border, the FDA hasn't taken much interest in pursuing companies selling Aldehyde based straighteners. The FDA budget is primarily reserved for the policing of big time pharmaceutical companies, so the pursuit of small businesses selling specialty Aldehyde based straighteners won't be a priority for the foreseeable future.
1. W.S. Simpson and G.H. Crenshaw, Wool: Science and Technology (Cambridge: Woodhead, 2002) 152.]]>
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