Formaldehyde treatments in haircare may seem new, but they actually have been common in the wool and textile industry for quite some time. The wool fiber and hair fiber share many similarities, so analysis of Formaldehyde's application to the wool fiber can be used for a basic understanding of how Formaldehyde may work on the hair fiber.
Dr. W. S. Simpson writes:
"Sidechains of ARG, LYS, TYR, TRP, HIS, cysteine, and the amide derivatives of ASP and GLU are known to be capable of reaction with formaldehyde. Some of these reactions can be bi-functional as well as mono-functional, so that new wool protein crosslinkages are likely. In addition to simple - CH2-, i.e. methylene crosslinkages, formaldehyde has a known propensity for self-condensation so that -CH2-(OCH2)n- or oxymethylene crosslinkages are feasible." (1)
Formaldehyde, Gluteraldehyde, and Glyoxal based systems are probably making crosslinks with the sidechains of amino acids in the hair fiber, rather than reacting with the sulfur-sulfur (disulfide) bonds of the cystine in hair. These crosslinks are stable for a good 3-4 months before the hair starts to revert back to its natural configuration. There is no refilling of the hair with keratin or any other elements that companies are trying to claim.
In my opinion, a significant amount of misinformation continues to exist regarding Keratin treaments, BKTs, Escovas, etc. Companies are now adapting through various methods to the growing consumer awareness, which only fuels the cycle of misinformation.
Some companies are starting to employ Formaldehyde's cousins such as Gluteraldehyde or Glyoxal in their systems and marketing that as a positive attribute. What they forget to mention is that they react with the hair in the same manner that Formaldehyde does. The compounds expose the stylists and salon patrons to the exact same health issues. Gluteraldehyde or Glyoxal may perhaps be weaker than Formaldehyde, but the companies may be using as much or even higher percentages to achieve the same effective straightening.
Some companies publish misleading information about their active ingredients. They include incorrect ingredient listings or don't label their products at all. In Brazil, companies may register their product ANVISA under the 0.2% formaldehyde limit, however post-transactional analysis of the samples can yield around 5% concentration of Formaldehyde.
On our side of the border, the FDA hasn't taken much interest in pursuing companies selling Aldehyde based straighteners. The FDA budget is primarily reserved for the policing of big time pharmaceutical companies, so the pursuit of small businesses selling specialty Aldehyde based straighteners won't be a priority for the foreseeable future.
1. W.S. Simpson and G.H. Crenshaw, Wool: Science and Technology (Cambridge: Woodhead, 2002) 152.
Hello Dr Syde
I'm 39 and for the last 6 yrs, I've had a problem with my hair. I have an afro natural,I used to prem my hair, havent done so for the last 3yrs.I do still dye my hair.
The problem that i have is when I wash my hair with any normal shampoo, and conditioner my hair smells.
When I use nizoral, it’s not so bad, but when it’s drying,it smells and its so strong,the odor. that co workers comment on it,in the office.If I leave any products in my hair the smell is most unpleasantly when they dry.my hair is quite dry
I have notice using acidic water makes a slight different.
If I apply oil’s to the scalp and hair the smell of the product changes and becomes extremely strong and unpleasant.
Some people describle it,as thou i have had a chemical reaction to the products I've used.
What would be causing this problem, and how can I deal with the problem.
I have recently purchased your KeraCare 1st Lather
Shampoo
KeraCare Hydrating Detangling Shampoo
KeraCare Humecto Creme Conditioner
KeraCare Intensive Restorative Masque
KeraCare Dry & Itchy Scalp MoisturizingConditioner
KeraCare Leave-In
Conditioner
I'm waiting for the order to arrive.
I look forward to hearing from you ,Thank you for your suggestions and assistance.
Regards
Ang
Hi Dr Syed,
I am a hair stylist,trying to convince the owners of my salon that offering these treatments is harmful to our health. I am searching for cited scientific/medical studies, articles or journals, stating the harmful effects of the the keratin/brazilian treatments. Do you have any links to such articles? Thank you in advance!
-Maureen
You can search on FDA's site or Google to see the formaldehyde affects on human health. You can also check the cancer producing (carcinogens) on the National Health Data base. Formaldehyde at 1 to 4.5% level is a carcinogen. The cosmetic industry has stopped using formaldehyde as a preservative voluntarily for quite a while now.
You can also read the comments section of my blog where people have reported many health problems after getting these treatments containing Formaldehyde.
Dr. Syed
Dear Dr. Syed,
I just received my 3rd keratin straightening treament and after reading your site it will defintely be my last. I have had flu-like symptoms ever since I had the last treatment done. Now I'm afraid for my health.
The damage I did in the salon is done--I can't change that. Now I'm concerned about having these chemicals in my hair day after day for the next 6 months (or whenever they come out). Is my hair dangerous in its current form?
I want to hire a lab to analyze my hair and see if it is toxic. Do you know where I can have that done?
Thanks for all your help, and for providing this important information.
Lisa
Dr. Syed,
I have been using a product called Brazilian Blowout, which claims to be formaldehyde free. They have told me that it contains an aldehyde that is non-carcinogenic. Is there such a thing? I have called them a couple of times to ask the same questions, because I am nervous they are lying. They told me to go online and read their MSDS.
http://www.brazilianblowout.com/images/Support_Materials/MSDS01.pdf
How do i know if the MSDS is real and not doctored?
The product has to be heated to 450 degrees to seal into the hair, It can be rinsed out right away and last up to 12 weeks. It does not straighten the hair completely.
I have used products containing formaldehyde and experienced extreme burning in my eyes, nose and throat. I do not have the same experience with this product. Does that mean it is safe? The worst experience with this product is a slight burning in the eyes...only some have this experience. Is it possible that the chemical in this product can act as a preservative and also be non-carcinogenic? Are leaving the doors open in the salon, allowing fresh air to circulate, enough of a precaution?
I would appreciate any feedback you could give me and hope that you could also test this product.
Follow up to previous comment...
I called the company that makes the Brazilian Blowout today and got more information... They stated that the original formula contained an aldehyde, the one they use now does not. They said that the new formula contains proprietary polymers and alcohol. I was told that it is 100% safe to use and is non-toxic. Is this possible? I am concerned, but hopeful, that there might be something safe out there to use. Any help you could give would be greatly appreciated. Thank You for all you work thus far, it means a lot to know there is someone out there that can help!
Dr. Ali,
Thank you for posting this. I was going to email you with questions regarding Keratin straightening. Now I have what I need to do more research on my own.
This post was right on time since I began teaching a class on various degrees of lanthionization- recommending sodium hydroxide and guanadine hydroxide for all curl hair types, regardless of ethnicity. We've had several caucasian clients come into the salon to receive relaxers for various reasons (loosening their curls, frizz control, ultra straightening, etc). Though they appreciate not having to spend $400+ and 4-6 hours for the service, they do typically ask about the keratin treatments as well as the thermal retexturizing services. I have minimal knowledge and experience with these processes because they have not been conducive to the needs of my clientele. But it's great to get more information on other straightening techniques so that I can give my clients an informed "cost-benefit" analysis. Carcinogens are definitely a deal-breaker.
Judiffier Pearson, Avlon Technical Consultant
Dr.Syed, I would like to know if you received the info. I sent you regarding the conditioner. Do hope you've had the opportunity to read it. Hopefully waiting for a response. Thank you for your precious time. A. R.