Let us take a look at the basic chemistry of permanent waving (technically called the "redox" process) to understand how hair is permanently curled or waved.
The redox process has two basic phases: reduction and oxidation. During the reduction phase, approximately 20% of the hair's cystine bonds are broken into cysteine (or half cystine bonds). It is in this phase that the hair assumes its new configuration. In the oxidation phase, 80-90% of the broken bonds are reformed to lock in the new curl formations.
How Is Straight Hair Permed?
Straight hair is permed in two stages, that are reduction and oxidation. Straight hair is first shampooed and towel blotted. It is then wrapped onto the perming rods of the desired shape and diameter making sure that hair is not wound too tightly on the rods. The permanent waving solution of desired type is applied to the hair that has been wrapped on the rods. A plastic cap is put on the hair and the solution is left on the hair for a specific time period. A few checks are made at several intervals to check the integrity of the curl formation. If the desired curl is formed, then the hair is thoroughly rinsed with water and towel blotted. The reduction of hair is completed here. In other words 20% of the cystine bonds have converted to cysteine bonds.
The towel-blotted hair is then neutralized using Neutralizing solution consisting of 2-3% percent active hydrogen peroxide for five minutes. The hair is then rinsed, rods are removed and hair is rinsed again with water. The oxidation of the cysteine binds have completed and the cysteine bonds have converted back to cystine bonds. The hair is now ready for styling.
How Excessively Curly Hair is Permed?
The permanent waving of excessively curly hair is typically performed in four stages:
Stage 1: A creme known as Rearranger or Reshaping Cream, containing ammonium thioglycolate, is applied and combed through freshly shampooed hair. Its purpose is to straighten the hair in preparation for wrapping the perm rods.
Stage 2: Once the Rearranger or Reshaping Cream is processed and rinsed out, a lotion called Curl Booster or Reshaping Lotion is applied. The hair is then wrapped and processed under a hood dryer for 15-20 minutes. A few rods are unwound to ensure that the hair has assumed an "S" pattern. The hair is then rinsed and towel blotted.
The final permanent waved style depends upon the selecting of the proper rod sizes for achieving curls, waves or body perms. A test curl will greatly assist in making an accurate determination. As a general guideline, smaller-diameter rods are used for curls, medium for waves, and larger rods for body perms.
During reduction, the pH of the hair is elevated from its normal range (4.5 - 5.0), to approximately 9.5 and 20% of the cystine bonds have changed into cysteine bonds.
Stage 3: A solution containing at least 10% of sodium bromate, called Neutralizer, is applied and left on the hair for 15-20 minutes. The perm rods are removed and the hair is rinsed. During Oxidation, the hair's pH balance is returned to its normal range. Here, most of the broken cysteine bonds change back to cystine bonds.
Stage 4: Following processing, glycerin and propylene glycol-based products are applied immediately to moisturize and style the hair in order to avoid frizzing of the hair.
I performed a perm wave on a real human last week, which was successful, but I am left with a question.
"Is it better to shampoo the hair before straightening?"
The instructions read to shampoo if necessary, which in my judgement the patron's hair seriously needed to be shampooed. Three instructors agreed that I was correct to shampoo; one stating that the patron is to be shampooed always. However three of my fellow students who have been doing hair in the kitchen prior to cosmetology school suggested that I not shampoo the patrons hair the next time. I'm convinced that the instructors are correct. Can you add to this topic by bestowing upon us some facts. Thank you for this topic 'Permanent Waving'.
Dr. Syed, in your opinion, does the need for a dryer depend upon the brand of curly perm used? I wasn't placed under a dryer at all during my process.
Nakia:
The dryer is used to accelerate the perming process. If a dryer is not used, then extra time is needed to ascertain the same degree of curl.
I hope this answers your question.
Fahiym
Shampooing before perming is a very good idea. The buildup of products from the hair can interfere in the perming process. Therefore, shampooing removes all the debris from the hair and makes the perm process more effective since you are dealing with clean hair.
In the African American perming process, it was taught not to shampoo before perming process in order to avoid any irritation from the Rearranger Cream. However, it is important not to shampoo the hair after completing the perm process, for at least 48 to 72 hours, as the hair is going through some transition to complete perm process.
can I switch from Phyto Relaxer to your product? Should I cut off Phyto hair, to the new growth, to get Ferm perm. Also are there pics available to see results?
Dr Syed
Since last year I've experienced problems with burning after my curly perm. The burning usually but not always starts when I get home & apply my maintenance products. Since this began I've also noticed sensitivity to my hair products, itching & sometimes burning.
This didn't happen with my curly perms as teen, so:
1)Is this normal?;
2)Would this affect my growth rate?;
2)Is it necessary to put the re-arranger/re-shaping cream on the scalp or very close to the scalp? On my the bottle of my rearranger it says to apply it to the scalp.
Thanks in advance!
L2L,
The itching after the perm could be due to Neutralizer and specifically Potassium Bromate in the Neutralizer. I would recommend that you take a shower after the perm.
After taking the rods out I would also recommend that your hairstylist rinses your hair for at least 5 minutes in order to rinse the Potassium Bromate from the hair.
It is not normal to experience itching after the perm. Usually, the itching can occur during the application of Reshaping Cream due to the presence of ammonia in the Reshaping Cream.
There are no studies available that indicate that perms retard the growth of hair.
I would not put the reshaping cream on the scalp right away. When smoothing the cream, it is automatically going to get onto the scalp, though minimizing exposure to the scalp, within reason, is always recommended.
Janet,
The relaxed hair cannot be curled by permanent waves. One has to always cut the relaxed hair and perm the new growth or virgin hair in order to get the curl.
The Phyto Relaxer contains Calcium Hydroxide in the Cream (they have omitted this ingredient from their literature) and their Activator contains Guanidine Carbonate.
When Calcium Hydroxide Cream is mixed with Guanidine Carbonate Activator, it produces Guanidine Hydroxide, which then straightens the hair.
The students who have done curls prior to cosmetology school are not yet convinced that shampooing before perming is a good idea. I've made mention of the product buildup lessening the effectiveness. I also mentioned that the hair is going through some transition to complete perm process and how it is important not to shampoo the hair after completing the perm process, for at least 48 to 72 hours. After reading Part 4 of the series I can see how shampooed hair would contribute to the end results you mentioned; ...superior permanently waved hair that has more moisture, elasticity, tensile strength, a stronger curl, which require less usage of maintenance products on a daily basis.
Is there anything more you can give me to assist in giving the ladies some the right knowledge?
Dr Syed
In your opinion which process is the most damaging to the hair: relaxers or curly perms?
I ask this as in the relaxing process the hair's pH level is elevated to around 13, whilst in the permanent waving process it's elevated to about 9.5. However, it's a common belief over here (at least in England) that curly perms are more damaging because they are a 'double-process'.
Thank you for your response, Dr Syed. I just wanted to add though that I when I experience irritation during the permanent waving process, it's when the rearranger is applied. Rinsing helps but the products I use at home will then itch and/or burn too (although I try to keep them off the scalp). I think I have developed a sensitive scalp.
Dear Dr Syed,
I have very very thick course afro hair, do you think it would be wise to straighten my hair first, using a flat iron? and then apply the ammonium thioglycolate.
Also, does the ammonium thioglycolate need to be neutralissed afterwards?
Thank You
Dear Dr Syed,
I have read about "air neutralization".
How does this work ? I have found the fallowing article posted in the BTC Forum:
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I have extensive experience with air neutralization of perms since the 70's. The technique was well described in Jheri Redding's book "Anatomy of a Permanent Wave", now out of print but probably the best book ever written on how to product a good perm.
It's very simple. use an alkaline perm and wrap the rods off base. Straight rods will produce a more even curl formation than concave rods. Process the perm and then blot the excess lotion off but DO NOT RINSE WITH WATER AT THIS POINT! Spray the rods with a liquid protein conditioner, cover with a hairnet, and send the client home. Warn them that an intense sulfur smell will develop in a few hours and is entirely normal at this point. (DO NOT DRY THE RODS WITH HEAT or you will form mixed disulfides in the hair structure).
Have the client return the next day and take down the rods, rinse very well, give a light shampoo and condidtioning.. The perm is done and you will find the condition of the hair is unbelievable and the curl is very close to rod size. There is also very little relaxation of the curl when compares to a chemically oxidized perm.
Why this works: Perming consists of reducing cysteine bonds and then reforming them by oxidation. Perm neutralizer is actually an oxidizing agent, most commonly hydrogen peroxide but sometimes other agents are used. Atmospheric oxygen can complete this process.
If you do not want to do a complete air oxidation you can air oxidize for an hour and then use the chemical oxidizer and get good results, better than if you just applied the oxidizer right after rinsing. To do this BLOT BUT DO NOT RINSE, spray on a liquid protein reconstructor, air oxidize for about an hour (schedule such services as manicures and pedicures in this time), then neutralize the perm. Once again you want to use an alkaline perm.
Hope some of you newer stylist find this info useful. These techniques are particularly good for color treated hair (and back in the day we DID perm and color or hilite all the time, it just required a bit of knowledge and a decent product line!)
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Do I understand her correct, that you apply the permanent waving lotion on your hair and that you "do not rinse it but just blot it" and leave the permanent waving lotion on your hair (with the rollers) for 24hrs, and rinse it the next morning when the hair is dry ??
Is this the correct way to do it ?
The reason why I ask is, I have fine hair and it's VERY VERY hard to curl no matter what permanent permlotion I use.
So I thought, maybe the Air neutralization method will help for a better curl.
I will appreciate your knowledge and advice.
Thank you so much for your time.
Fahiym:
I do not have anything more at this moment but I will keep you posted on this topic as more information becomes available.
L2L,
Normally the permanent wave process for Caucasians is less damaging than the hair relaxing process. However, permanent waves or "Curly Perms" for African descent hair is a three step chemical process. The hair is treated twice with an ammonium thioglycolate cream or lotion - that is - once for straightening the kinky curly hair, and the second time for wrapping the straightened hair on the desired size rods with ammonium thioglycolate lotion or solution.
The Straightening Cream or Rearranging Cream contains ammonium thioglycolate at 7 - 8 (active basis) and a pH of around 9.0 to 9.5 with ammonia. The Wrapping Lotion, also known as Curl Booster, contains 4 - 5 ammonium thioglycolate at a pH of around 9.0 - 9.2. This double treatment of hair with ammonium thioglycolate does significant damage to the hair.
Conversely, the relaxers based upon sodium hydroxide or guanidine hydroxide are left on the hair for 18 to 20 minutes and cause less damage to hair and do not require the daily applications of glycerin based curl activators. The Avlon Ferm Permanent Wave process does less damage than conventional permanent waves, as it is based upon Strengthening Lotion which is applied after the permanent wave lotion and before neutralization in order to siphon off chemicals from the inside or cortex of the hair.
I hope I have answered your question.
L2L, make sure to get your scalp analyzed by a hair stylist for dryness and dandruff. The itching could be due to dandruff. To combat this itchiness, you can use KeraCare Dry & Itchy Shampoo and KeraCare Dry & Itchy Conditioner.
RP, you need to first straighten the hair with Ammonium thioglycolate and then straighten with a flat iron. The hair then has to be neutralized and it will stay straight permanently.
Maureen,
Yes, it can be done as described under air neutralization but it is a cumbersome process. Normally, salon patrons do not have time to come back the next day for the completion of the service. We live in a fast society where quickness translates into more money.
The air neutralization process can produce a firmer curl if you are willing to go through the long and arduous process.
Hi Dr Syed
Would it be fair to say that although curly perms for afro hair are generally more damaging to the hair than relaxers, relaxers are more damaging to the roots/scalp?
The reason I ask this is because it seems that people who've had serious problems caused by relaxers experience areas on the scalp that don't grow (either permanently or temporarily), as well as damage to the hair (breakage, split ends and so on).
Conversely, people who have problems with curly perms seem to only experience damage to the hair, from what I've observed.
Can you shed any light on this?
Regards
L2L
I have not come across any study that indicates that repeated use of relaxers retard the growth of hair follicles. However, I feel that use of high pH chemicals such as relaxers, permanent waves, permanent hair colors and hair lighteners must be carefully selected. The exposure to the scalp should be limited during the application process and scalp should be cared for and stimulated using various techniques and scalp stimulating products.
Dr Syed
I'd like to know which techniques & stimulating products you recommend for the scalp.
This is in response to your comment above in which you stated that the "scalp should be cared for and stimulated using various techniques and scalp stimulating products,"(July 21, 2009 11:45 PM).
Regards
L2L