There are a wide array of styles and textures available to today's salon clientele. With so many options, the ability to switch from one look to another has never been more important.
To answer the question--can relaxed hair be stripped?--it is necessary that we first understand the chemistry of the hair, as well as the lanthionization (relaxation) process.
When two or more polypeptides align themselves parallel to each other, and their cysteines (amino acid) combine with each other to form cystine or disulfide bonds across these polypeptides, a keratin fiber is created in the process.
Hair, or keratin according to chemical terminology, is made up of polypeptides. (Polypeptides are made up of amino acids -- the basic unit of protein.) Polypeptides are aligned in a parallel fashion and are cross linked with cystine bonds (also called disulfide bonds). Note that cystine bonds have two sulfur atoms.
When excessively curly hair is chemically straightened with hydroxide-based relaxers, (i.e., sodium, potassium, lithium, and guanidine hydroxide, etc.) approximately one-third of the cystine bonds are changed to lanthionine bonds. The lanthionine bond has only a single sulfur atom; one sulfur atom less than the cystine bond of virgin hair.
Lanthionine bonds are very stable, meaning that they are no longer susceptible to further change. Thus, once cystine bonds have been changed with a relaxer treatment, there is now no way known in science for the lanthionine bonds to be changed back to cystine bonds. In other words, chemical relaxation is a permanent process that cannot be reversed.
Why then do you hear clients saying that their relaxer "didn't take, went back, or reverted"? Or, why do professionals sometimes witness a frizzy appearance on portions of their clients' hair that were previously relaxed? Actually, there are a few explanations.
The first is that the hair was insufficiently straightened in the first place. If, indeed, less than one-third of the cystine bonds were converted into lanthionine bonds, the hair may look straighter on the day of treatment, but will eventually appear to revert. To prevent this occurrence, the proper relaxer strength must be selected and adequate time given to the smoothing segment of the process.
The second possible explanation is that something was done to the hair to roughen-up the cuticle, (i.e., improper shampooing, the use of pH-imbalanced products, incorrect combing, and brushing, etc.). Also, due to the fact that relaxed hair is more porous than virgin hair, humidity can give hair that "less-than-straight" appearance, especially in hot and high humidity climates.
The third possibility is a rare phenomenon, which I call "natural reversion." Although this is a hypothesis and not a documented scientific fact, it is one that has been discussed over the years among some in the scientific community. It has been established that when hair is relaxed, the natural arrangements of atoms and molecules of hair in the space are changed. The "natural reversion" theory purports that this new rearrangement of atoms and molecules in the hair is so stressful and uncomfortable for the hair that it fights to return to its original positions. Therefore, within a week or two, the hair may slightly revert back to its original status i.e. some noticeable reversion.
Keep in mind that even as theorized, natural reversion is a very, very rare occurrence that is experienced by only an infinitesimally small number of people. By and large, even if relaxed hair seems as though it has reverted, don't be confused...most likely it hasn't.
Since the early 1980's, there have been at least a couple of products that claimed to strip relaxed hair so that it then could be permanently waved. These attempts were not successful. Equally unsuccessful are the mythical "home remedies" of rising the hair with highly acidic substances such as vinegar.
None of these methods have been scientifically proven to work, and they can actually cause damage by ruffling the cuticle and disturbing the charge balance of amino acids and polypeptides of hair fibers.
Should a client ever want to return his or her hair to its natural state, the only way is to cut off the relaxed portion once there is adequate growth. For those who now have a natural head of hair and are not comfortable with the idea of a permanent texture change, it's best to press the hair to achieve straight styles. Pressing is a "physical" alteration that is temporary. Lanthionization is a "chemical" change that is permanent.
I'm so glad you posted this article about the explanations why a person believes the hair has reverted. You've armed us with more knowledge so that we are able to better explain to clients who stand firm on the belief that their hair has reverted. Some believe they can cause the hair to revert by pouring vinegar over it.
Question: In the rare case of "natural reversion" where hair may slightly revert back to its original status, is the hair that does this of a partucular structure?
Thanks, Fahiym
I'm so glad you posted this article about the explanations why a person believes the hair has reverted. Indeed some 'argue' that they can cause the hair to revert by pouring vinegar over it. You've now armed us with more knowledge so that we are able to better explain to clients who continue to stand firm on the belief that their hair has reverted.
Question: In the rare case of "natural reversion" where hair may slightly revert back to its original status, is the hair that does this of a partucular structure?
Thanks, Fahiym
Great information....
I especially appreciate the theory that is " natural reversion"....something I think I suffer from when attempting to have (maintain) relaxed hair!!! No matter the strength of the relaxer, (although I usually stick with MILD or Regular strength)or how much effort I take to smooth everything out, it usually looks pretty "natural" after about 2 weeks.
We've learned well from you that once cystine bonds have been changed with a relaxer treatment, there is now no way known in science for the lanthionine bonds to be changed back to cystine bonds.
With that in mind we'd like to know if you've done experiments or studies on Sodium Hydroxide fusing itself to the hair shaft for ever?
Mr Caple, in his book 'The Science of Healthy Hair' writes that it is never totally removed from the hair.
Sodium hydroxide fuses itself to the haft and although the physical product is rinsed from the hair, a film like deposit remains in the hair and is still working at decimal rates.
How does this impact or correlate with post relaxer service especially haircolor and even thermal curling?
Fahiym,
I know Mr Caple. If I am not mistaken, he is a hairstylist from Virginia.
Coming back to your question, you need to see the scientific evidence they produce for their anecdotal views.
Sodium hydroxide does not fuse itself with the hair fibers. Whatever NaOH left on the hair at the completion of the lanthionization process gets rinsed out with water for the most part. The remaining traces of sodium hydroxide get neutralized with the help of organic acids present in post-relaxer conditioners and post-relaxer neutralizing shampoos.
The evidence that I would present to you, the hairstylist, is the pH study of the hair before the relaxer treatment, after rinsing the relaxer, and then after post-relaxer conditioner and shampoo treatments.
The study was presented to you during my presentation about the Avlon and Syntonics Relaxer Systems.
With respect to your question about the physical structure of reverted hair, the hair tends to have a narrow row of ortho cortical cells with predominance of para cortical cells. It could be of any texture but it is slightly wavy. It also is fine in texture with a small amount of medula or no medula at all.
Yes, it alway helps to see scientific evidence, especially in these days and times where so much is being revealed and misinformation is being uncovered. I'm somewhat overwhelmed in school at this time but I will make my way to reviewing the Avlon and Syntonics Relaxer Systems.
Hi Dr. Syed, I'm writing with a serious problem- I am of Afro-Caribbean and East Indian parentage, my hair is long and chemically relaxed, however I've noticed that the mid section of my strands look very rough when wet, porous and very rough, however when dried or roller set, you can't see it. What could this be and what can I do if anything? Anticipating your reply.
Shenelle,
It appears that your hair is over processed in that section where it feels rough.
Another sign of over-processing is the porosity of hair. If hair is more porous, then it is damaged.
I would recommend that you use KeraCare Hydrating Shampoo followed by KeraCare Intensive Masque for good 20 to 30 minutes to strengthen and mitigate the damage.
If you do not have these products, you can let know and we will be glad to send you samples of these products.
This was a very good article. I have attempted to go natural twice- the first time by having my hair cut at a natural salon at the line of demarcation and the second time, I shaved my head on my own. I get frustrated each time because 1/4 of my head has a fabulous S curl, 2/4 is just wavy and the remainder is just bush. I don't understand this as my hair was natural as a kid and I had an S formation curl all over. I have tried using Ms. Jessies and KinkyKurly to help but they just define the curl and waves and do nothing for the bush.
When I reach this frustration, I end up relaxing my hair. It is relaxed now and the back of my hair appears to be reverting. It is very tightly coiled (unrelaxed this is the most curly part of my hair).
My hair is really frustrating to me and I want to transition back to natural but I'm apprehensive about the variety of textures awaiting me.
Any suggestions?
Shawana, if you are in the Chicago area, you are most welcome to visit our test salon which offers free services. If you are not in the Chicago area, we can recommend someone in your area that can help resolve your problem.
all great info........i have a problem......i am natural since sept 08 however, i wanted to have a trim so the stylist encouraged me to press my hair for a better trim. problem is that now a section at the front of my hair is permanently straight and will not revert back. any suggestions..........??
thanks,
makeba