During the shampooing of hair, a few processes are at work simultaneously, which are as follow:
1. While shampooing, physical abrasion of wet hair is being caused by rubbing movement of the fingers during the sudsing of the shampoo and the cleansing process. According to Okumura (1984), this rubbing action is responsible for cuticle damage or cuticle abrasion and the cuticles are chipped away from the surface of the hair.
2. Towel drying can also cause damage to the hair due to rubbing movements.
3. The detergents of the shampoo can slowly but gradually dissolve a small portion of the non-keratinous cell membrane complex and the endocuticles.
1. While shampooing, physical abrasion of wet hair is being caused by rubbing movement of the fingers during the sudsing of the shampoo and the cleansing process. According to Okumura (1984), this rubbing action is responsible for cuticle damage or cuticle abrasion and the cuticles are chipped away from the surface of the hair.
2. Towel drying can also cause damage to the hair due to rubbing movements.
3. The detergents of the shampoo can slowly but gradually dissolve a small portion of the non-keratinous cell membrane complex and the endocuticles.
4. The detergents of the shampoos can also remove the structural lipids.
5. Combing and brushing after shampooing can actually damage the hair more than the lathering step of the shampooing.
It is also observed that hair that has been chemically straightened by using alkaline cream relaxers can lose more of its cuticles during the lathering of the hair with the shampoos. Since the cuticles are somewhat loosely attached to the hair shaft of the chemically straightened hair, they come apart or chip away easily from the hair shaft and run down in the sink during rinsing of the hair.
How to Minimize Shampoo Damage
Practitioners of hair styling should follow several steps that will eliminate or minimize this shampooing damage. These shampoos will have some of the following features:
1. The shampoo should consist of very mild detergents and co-detergents. These detergents should not dissolve the cell membrane complex of the hair, present in the cortex of the hair, and the endocuticles if possible.
2. The shampoo's detergents should not be aggressive in dissolving the structural lipids of the hair.
3. The concentration of the detergents should be optimum in order to cleanse the hair and scalp and should not be excessive.
4. The manipulation of the hair during lathering should be minimized and the hair stylists should be trained in the theory and practice of shampooing in the light of this information.
5. Towel drying of the hair should be restricted to towel blotting of the hair.
6. Combing of the hair should not be carried out until the hair is extremely easy to comb. If the hair is not very easy to comb, additional conditioners and leave in conditioners should be applied including conditioners consisting of silicones. To make wet hair very easy to comb, laminates based on silicone sprays are an excellent choice.
7. Make sure that the shampoo is formulated with conditioning ingredients such as hydrolyzed wheat proteins and some cationic compounds in order to reduce friction during the lathering process of the shampoo application.
8. Make sure the pH of the shampoo is from 4.5 to 6.5 so that it does not swell the cuticle layers of the hair unnecessarily, which could facilitate the chipping away of the cuticles from the hair shaft.
5. Combing and brushing after shampooing can actually damage the hair more than the lathering step of the shampooing.
It is also observed that hair that has been chemically straightened by using alkaline cream relaxers can lose more of its cuticles during the lathering of the hair with the shampoos. Since the cuticles are somewhat loosely attached to the hair shaft of the chemically straightened hair, they come apart or chip away easily from the hair shaft and run down in the sink during rinsing of the hair.
How to Minimize Shampoo Damage
Practitioners of hair styling should follow several steps that will eliminate or minimize this shampooing damage. These shampoos will have some of the following features:
1. The shampoo should consist of very mild detergents and co-detergents. These detergents should not dissolve the cell membrane complex of the hair, present in the cortex of the hair, and the endocuticles if possible.
2. The shampoo's detergents should not be aggressive in dissolving the structural lipids of the hair.
3. The concentration of the detergents should be optimum in order to cleanse the hair and scalp and should not be excessive.
4. The manipulation of the hair during lathering should be minimized and the hair stylists should be trained in the theory and practice of shampooing in the light of this information.
5. Towel drying of the hair should be restricted to towel blotting of the hair.
6. Combing of the hair should not be carried out until the hair is extremely easy to comb. If the hair is not very easy to comb, additional conditioners and leave in conditioners should be applied including conditioners consisting of silicones. To make wet hair very easy to comb, laminates based on silicone sprays are an excellent choice.
7. Make sure that the shampoo is formulated with conditioning ingredients such as hydrolyzed wheat proteins and some cationic compounds in order to reduce friction during the lathering process of the shampoo application.
8. Make sure the pH of the shampoo is from 4.5 to 6.5 so that it does not swell the cuticle layers of the hair unnecessarily, which could facilitate the chipping away of the cuticles from the hair shaft.
Regarding #6 of how to Minimize Shampoo Damage, "...If the hair is not very easy to comb, additional conditioners and leave in conditioners should be applied including conditioners consisting of silicones..." but how much is too much? Does silicone block additional moisture from penetrating the hair strands?
There are many types of silicones available for the formulating hair chemist. The silicones don't block the penetration of moisture entirely. There are silicones that have a positive charge. These positively charged silicones are attracted to the spots of hair fiber which are negatively charged. The rest of the fiber does not attract positively charged silicone molecules.
In the case of laminates, the silicones may not be positively charged. Even the non-charged silicones aren't fully capable of blocking the moisture from entering the hair or existing the hair fibers.
Yes there are some silicones which are capable of delaying the penetration of moisture into the hair but they aren't usually used in products such as laminates.
I hope this clears your inquiry.
While cleansing the hair with a shampoo containing mild detergents so as not to dissolve the cell membrane complex of the hair, along with minimized manipulation of the hair; how is one to be sure the hair is free of debris other than looking for clear foam during the second sudsing which might be one sudsing too many if one fails to notice clean hair after the first lathering?
Mr. Fahiym
I believe two sudsing are going to clean the hair and scalp. The detergents used in the shampoos are powerful enough to cleanse hair and scalp effectively. The mild detergents of the shampoos do not damage the hair and scalp that fast. The conditioners applied after the shampoo will compensate for the lost scalp lipids and lost scalp moisture.
Dr Ali Syed
At the end of the first half Shampoos & Hair Damage article it is mentioned that the cuticles of chemically straightedned hair are loosely attached thus I get the inference that the article speaks in regard to studies performed to determine shampoo and damage of untreated hair. Am I correct?
Where can one find more information on the 'Theory and Practice of Shampooing'. As a stylist of mostly ethnic textures I find the shampoo bowl a most challenging area. This is often where first impressions occur. Clients often crave a vigorous scrubbing when that is not always advisable (especially after a chemical service). We currently use a shampoo that leaves a cool tingle and have implemented many massage elements but in the end most clients want to feel that scalp has been scoured clean. In realizing that this is a psychological and cosmetological issue I would like to know what your recommendations are in this regard.
May I add that you, Dr. Ali Syed, are a Rock Star. As an information hungry cosmetologist, I find myself bombarded with 'celebrity stylists', 'platform artists', 'weaveologists', and the like masquerading as educators. Their vibrancy has always been fleeting but in my nearly two decades as a licensed professional you have been consistently the leading enlightening voice in hair care and product development. A Standing Ovation to you Sir.
Hello,
I was wondering if Cocamide DEA is a harmful cancerous ingrediant to have in shampoos?
Cocoamide DEA may produce nitrosomines that are considered precursors to cancerous materials. Generally, Cocoamide DEA has been replaced with Cocoamide MEA now.
Dr. Ali Syed