June 2008 Archives

How Conditioners Can Help Repair Chemical-Related Damage

In "Conditioning the Hair, Part II", we discussed how combing and the weather can damage the hair and how conditioners can help. Here, we take a look at chemicals, in part three of this four-part series.

Relaxers contain sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, lithium hydroxide or guanidine hydroxide as active ingredients. (To date, sodium hydroxide and guanidine hydroxide are the most effective straightening agents.) Relaxers work by changing a third of the cystine bonds into lanthionine bonds, and in the process, the hair experiences a twelve-to-fourteen percent loss in tensile strength.

Permanent waves contain ammonium thioglycolate as an active ingredient and have a pH of 9.0 - 9.5 (The pH level is attained when ammonium or monethanolamine - MEA - is added to the ammonium thioglycolate creme rearrangers or boosters during manufacturing.) Ammonium thioglycolate cremes reduce (or break) 20-40 percent of cysteine (1/2 of cystine) bonds before the hair is rodded. During neutralization process, the reduced bonds are oxidized with the help of sodium bromate, reforming 80 - 85 percent of the broken bonds. Therefore, 15-20 percent of reduced (broken) cystine bonds never reform, thus causing dryness to permanently waved hair.

Permanent hair colors contain hydrogen peroxide as one the active ingredients at 20 to 40 volume concentration. As the color of the hair is permanently altered, cystine bonds are changed to cysteic acid. This process is also extremely drying to the hair.

In each of the chemical processes described above, it is important that hair be well conditioned before, during, and after the procedure and that any existing damage be repaired. Attending to the hair in this way, while it's being chemically treated, will also help eliminate combing damage. Be sure to select chemical systems that incorporate such complete conditioning features.

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In Part One of "Conditioning the Hair," four basic causes of hair damage were mentioned. In Part Two of this series, we will discuss two of those causes - combing and the weather - and what you can do as a stylist to prevent/eliminate these types of damage from occurring.

COMBING DAMAGE

Human hair is elastic but not perfectly so. Its elasticity allows it to sustain a certain degree of pulling force exerted by combing (or brushing). Many times, the pulling or combing force applied during regular and normal styling, stretches the hair beyond its limits causing breakage.

Combing force can be minimized by: using deep penetrating conditioners to detangle the hair and mend the broken areas along the hairshaft, which can snag on one another during combing; applying auxiliary products, such as leave-in conditioners if further detangling is needed to comb wet hair prior to blow drying or setting; always using a wide-tooth comb, particularly while hair is wet and most vulnerable; gently combing through the hair section by section starting at the nape and proceeding upwards towards the crown; and applying a dab of oil moisturizer or hairdress on dry hair, prior to styling.

You'll be able to gauge breakage by examining the hair left in the comb.

WEATHER-RELATED DAMAGE

The heat and ultraviolet rays from the sun have devastating effects on the hair. The heat generated by the sun dries out hair fibers and ultraviolet (UV) rays alter some of the cysteic acid bonds. This results in a weakening of the hair fiber and a small degree of color bleaching.

To combat sun-related damages, advise your clients to stay out of the sun as much as possible or cover the hair with a silk scarf when outside.

Other remedies include using an oil moisturizer or creme hairdress to help alleviate and replenish the loss of moisture from the hair or UV-absorbing or sun-screening products formulated especially for hair, containing such ingredients as para-amino benzoic acid. Some oil moisturizers or creme hairdressings contain UV absorbers. Ask your manufacturer if the brand you use contains sunscreening agents.

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Demographic trends support the fact that America is growing older. Yet, in today's society, "looking good" becomes no less important with age. In the arena of professional hair care, stylists and manufacturers alike are now being challenged to address the special needs of the older salon client. Among the most prevalent concerns of the mature are graying, hair discoloration, altered hair texture and hair thinning.

The Graying of the Hair
Typically, hair begins to gray during one's 40s, and with advancing years, gray hair will eventually tum white. The graying of hair is less common in African-Americans than in Caucasians, because highly pigmented races have more melanin (the primary pigment of the hair).

Melanin is synthesized (or produced) within cells called melanocytes, which are situated on the uppermost part of the dermal papilla (the hair root) and at other sites along the root sheath (see diagram). The activity level of melanocyte cells, whereby melanin is produced, is age dependent. That is, as a person gets older, less of the pigment which gives hair coloration, is produced. As grey hair turns white, melanocytes are no longer identified in the melanocytic zone.

Hair Discoloration
Commonly, gray hair takes on a yellow or yellowish-green cast when it has been chemically treated. Environmental factors - pollutants, cigarette smoke, etc - can also contribute to discoloration.

To remove the cast from gray hair, look into two of Avlon's product services that can neutralize and/or eliminate discoloration:

1. KeraCare Clear-Away Yellow Conditioning Shampoo
This shampoo has innovative technology that leaves gray hair brighter and shinier. It will not bleach original hair color and will not diminish tensile strength. The Clear-Away Yellow Conditioning Shampoo will not leave purple or blue residues. It will also tone blondes, decolorized/highlighted hair while moisturizing and adding shine to the hair.

Pour 1/2 ounce of Clear Away Yellow Conditioning Shampoo into the palm of one hand. Add one full pump (2 ml) of Clear Away Yellow Activator in the same palm. Using both hands, work mixture into a lather and massage until the suds turn white. Repeat the same procedure leaving the second application in the hair for 4-5 minutes.

2. MoisturColor Semi-Permanent Shade 0BV - Grey Envy
Apply this product via the bowl & brush method to sectioned hair that has been 50% towel dried. Comb through to distribute evenly. Place your client under a warm hooded dryer for 30 minutes, and then cool down for 5 minutes. Apply a small amount of water to work up a lather. Rinse until water runs clear. Apply MoisturColor Conditioner for Color Treated Hair. Wait for 5 minutes before finally rinsing.

Altered Hair Texture
Gray hair tends to be coarser and drier than pigmented hair. Often it is described in our trade as "wiry" and resistant. Dryness results as the activity of the sebaceous glands slow down with age.

The professional stylist will often find it necessary, when chemically processing gray hair, to use an increased strength. For example, on normal-textured gray hair, a resistant strength relaxer may be necessary to achieve a proper degree of straightening.

To help soften and provide manageability to coarse gray hair, use moisturizing conditioners and moisturizing styling/finishing products. Avoid conditioning treatments that contain excessive amounts of proteins. They will make the hair even harder to manage.

Hair Thinning
Alopecia is a term that refers to baldness, loss of hair or thinning of scalp hair. There are numerous causes. The alopecia that is related to age occurs in both men and women. Hair thinning among males, however, appears to be more pronounced. The degree of hair loss experienced by an individual is largely a function of heredity. Other factors related to health may also play a role.

Thin hair can be made to look fuller with the use of polymeric and proteinous conditioners. They leave behind agents on the hairshaft and/or within the hairshaft, making it more voluminous. Hair colorings produce a similar effect.

The expert use of hairsprays can make the hair look fuller, as well. It holds the hair in place as it is styled to camouflage thinning hair.

Finally, skilled hair cutting can often give thin hair a thicker appearance.