May 2008 Archives

Over the course of time, the internet has enabled end-consumers without formal cosmetology training to acquire a considerable amount of knowledge about haircare. Back in '94, I compiled a general list of terms for ShopTalk magazine that cosmetologists should know, but in reality, anyone interested in the proper maintenance of their hair should be familiar with these terms:

Absorption - When a substance is entered inside the hair shaft, it is known to be absorbed.

Adsorption· When a substance is present only on the outer surface of the hair, it is known to be adsorbed.

Acid- The word acid is derived from the Latin word acidus, meaning sour or tart and also related to the Latin word acetum meaning vinegar. Therefore, properties commonly associated with water solutions of acids are sour or tart in taste. Acids are rich in hydrogen ions, or protons, and they change the color of litmus from blue to red.

Acidic - The pH of acid solutions ranging from 0.1 to 6.9 and these acid solutions are called acidic in nature.

Alkali - A water soluble substance capable of liberating hydroxide ions (OH) in water. The pH of such a solution ranges from 7.1 to 14.0. The examples of alkaline solutions are sodium hydroxide, lithium hydroxide and potassium hydroxide bases which are also termed as "Iye." Guanidine hydroxide is also alkaline in nature.

Acid-Balanced or pH Balanced - Having a pH of 4.0 to 6.0.

Aquatic Balance - A state achieved when the hair is infused with and/or retains the level of moisture characteristics of normal human hair.

BiocomphHlex - A compound of organic materials, capable of attaching to the hair. Depending upon the chemical composition, the BiocompHlex can serve a number of purposes including reducing porosity, realigning the cuticle layer and deep conditioning within the hair shaft.

Cationic - Descriptive of positively charged molecules, existing in water miscible conditioners, that adhere to negative and/or damaged sites on the hair shaft. Cationic conditioners, dependent upon the level and strategy of formulation, can impart sheen, body and a silky feel to the hair.

Cationic Humectants - A combination of cationic compounds and humectant compounds that attach electronically to damaged areas along the hair shaft to properly balance moisture levels (also see humectants).

Chelating Agent - A material which ties' up calcium, magnesium, or metal ions so that they arc no longer effective. Products with chelating agents have the ability to extract calcium and magnesium ions from the surface of the hair fiber, rendering hair more pliable.

Cortex - The middle or inner layer, which gives strength and elasticity to the hair, is made of a fibrous substance formed by elongated cells. This layer contains the pigment that gives the hair its color.

Cuticle - The outside horny layer, is composed of transparent, overlapping, protective scale-like cells, pointing away from the scalp towards the hair ends. Chemicals raise these scales so that solutions can enter into the hair cortex. The cuticle protects the inner structure of the hair.

Cysteine - An amino-acid easily oxidized to cystine; obtained by the reduction of cystine,

Cysteine Bonds - When cystine bonds are reduced or broken in the middle by reducing agents like Ammonium Thioglycolate.

Cystine - A sulphur containing amino-acid found in hair and nails.

Cystine Cross-links - Disulfide bonds within the hair that connect or cross-link two polypeptide chains (much like the rungs of a ladder.)

Diameter of Hair (Coarse, medium or fine) - Coarse hair has the greatest diameter. Fine hair has the smallest.

Elasticity - The ability of the hair to stretch and return to its original length without breaking. Normal hair has its limitations as to the amount of pull or pressure it can withstand. Under normal conditions, the hair can be safely stretched about one-fifth of its length. Hair that has normal elasticity presents a healthy and lustrous appearance. A deficiency in the elasticity of hair causes it to become lifeless and limp. Very little elasticity is left in hair that has been abused by overprocessing during chemical services.

Elipticity -The cross-sectional shape of hair. Hair assumes the shape, size and direction of the follicle. It is a ratio of major and minor axis in the cross-section of hair. African hair has elipticity of 1.89 whereas caucasian and oriental hair have elipticity of 1.4 and 1.1 respectively.

Fibrillar Network - A conditioning reparative firm that encases each hair strand to improve the hairs overall condition.

Fixative - A chemical agent capable of stopping the processing of a chemical hair relaxer and transforming the hair to its new fonn such as a neutralizer or stabilizer.

Follicle - The tube-like depression or pocket in the scalp containing the hair root.

Fragilitas criniurn - Technical term for brittleness of the hair.

Guanidine Hydroxide - An organic base which is used as a hair straightening agent with a relatively low potential for scalp irritation.

Hair Bulb - A thickened, clubshaped structure fanning the lower part of the hair root. The lower part of the bulb is hollowed out to fit over and cover the hair papilla.

Hair Papilla - A small cone-shaped elevation located at the bottom of the hair follicle which fits into the hair bulb. It is through the papilla that nourishment reaches the hair bulb. The papilla has the ability to produce hair cells. As long as the papilla functions, the hair will grow.

Hair Root - That part of the hair contained within the hair follicle beneath the skin's surface.

Hair Shaft - That portion of the hair which projects beyond the skin.

Hair Test - A sampling of how the hair will react to a particular treatment.

Humectants - Chemical substances capable of attracting moisture from the atmosphere onto the hair shaft (i.e., glycerin, propylene glycol). Especially beneficial for moisturizing dry, brittle hair and retaining proper moisture balance.

Hydrator - A substance capable of adding moisture to the hair.

Hydration - The act of adding water to a substance or material. Relative to hair care, hydration refers to adding moisture with humectants and other conditioning agents, to correct or prevent dryness.

Hydrogen Bonds or H-Bonds - The cross-bonds or links that are more numerous than sulfur bonds, but they are much weaker and can be broken easily with water or chemicals.

Hydrolyzed - The breaking down of a substance into smaller components. A large polypeptide chain of protein, for example, can be hydrolyzed into smaller polypeptide chains so that it can pass through the cuticle, penetrate into the cortex, and replace the keratin that has been lost from the hair.

Hygroscopic - The ability to attract moisture from the atmosphere.

Inter-FiberFriction - The resistance experienced among hair strands during combing and brushing; particularly acute when hair is damaged or lacking in proper conditioning.

Imbrications - Cells arranged in layers overlapping one another; found in cuticle layer of hair.

Internal Molecular Flow - A phenomenon that occurs during the permanent waving process (before oxidation) whereby the molecules of the hair have adjusted to their new curly/wavy configuration. The significance of this process is that when complete, the curl and wave patterns are strengthened.

Keratin - The hard protein of which hair is composed.

Lanthionization-The process whereby hair is permanently relaxed or straightened. It involves changing one third of the hairs cystine bonds (which consists of two sulfur atoms) to lanthionine bonds (consisting of one sulfur atom). Sodium hydroxide and guanide hydroxide are two commonly used active ingredients that effectively lanthionize excessively curly hair.

Macrofibrous - Descriptive of certain conditioning materials that are in the form of relatively large thread-like particles, similar in structure to the cortex of the hair. They effectively fill in larger cavities and damaged sites on the hair shaft, to leave hair smooth, soft, shiny, silky feeling and very easy to comb. (These macrofibrous conditioning agents are present in Affirm™ 5 in 1 Reconstructor.)

Medulla - The innermost layer, is referred to as the pith, or marrow of the hair shaft, and is composed of round cells. The medulla may be absent in fine and very fine hair.

Melanin - The dark or black pigment in the epidermis and hair.

Microfibrous - Descriptive of certain conditioning materials that are in the form of very small spiderweb-like particles. They act as fillers in the tiny crevices and damaged sites on the hair shaft, to even out porosity, smooth cuticles and strengthen hair temporarily.

No-Base Relaxers - Creme relaxers that contain adequate amounts of petrolatum and/or mineral oils to help protect the scalp against the irritating effects of sodium hydroxide or guanidine hydroxide. The need to manually apply oils to the scalp is virtually eliminated.

Normal Hair Shedding - The average daily hair shedding is estimated at 50-80 hairs. Hair loss beyond this estimated average indicates some scalp or hair trouble.

Overlapping - Condition caused by a relaxer touch-up when the cream overlaps onto previously treated hair. The result of overlapping during a relaxer application is usually severe hair damage or breakage.

Oxidizing Lotion - A solution used in the permanent waving process which is rich in oxygen-containing compounds (i.e. sodium brom~ltc and hydrogen peroxide). It works to reform the reduced cystine (cysteine) bonds and lock-in the new curl or wave pattern.

Peptide - A compound of two or more amino-acids containing one or more peptide groups; continuous filaments in the case of fiber protein or keratin.

Permanent Hair Color - Hair color formulated to penetrate the cuticle and deposit molecules of pigment into the cortex. Permanent hair color usually contains an aniline tint, which is a coaltar derivative. These penetrating tints can lift and deposit color in one step.

pH (Potential Hydrogen) - A measurement ranging from 0 to 14.0 that measures the relative degree of acidity or alkalinity of a substance. Healthy hair and scalp are slightly acidic, at a pH of 4.5 - 5.5 and are only balanced within this range. At a high (alkaline) ,pH, the hair shaft swells and cuticles are opened. At a low (acidic) pH, the hair shaft contracts and cuticles are closed very tightly. inhibiting the absorption of conditioners.

Pilus- Plural for "pili." meaning hair.

Polypeptide - Strings of amino acids joined together by peptide bonds, the prefix "poly" meaning many.

Polypeptide Chains - A complex internal structure within hair, characterized by linkages of various amino acids.

Porosity - Ability of the hair to absorb moisture due to lifted cuticle layers.

Positively-Charged Compounds - Descriptive of a very large number of different agents that attach electronically to the negative sites of the hair shaft. (The normal hair strand has a balance of both positive and negative charges. Should the hair become damaged, the number of negative sites increases.) Depending upon the specific compound of grouping of compounds, the effect will be to reduce combing friction, realign the hair shaft, make hair more pliable, improve the optical qualities of hair (i.e. shine and fullness). eliminate static electricity, lubricate the hair shaft. etc.

Protein - A complex organic substance present in all living tissues, such as skin, hair and nails; necessary in the daily diet; also present in skin and hair conditioners.

Pull Test - A test to determine the degree of elasticity of the hair.

Redox - The process whereby curls or waves are chemically and permanently formed into hair. It involves two distinct chemical processes: reduction and oxidation. Reduction entails the cleavage of breakage of cystine bonds via rearrangers. The altered bonds are called cysteine bonds Or half cystine bonds. Oxidation is accomplished when oxidizing solution (formulated with sodium bromate or hydrogen peroxide) is applied to rodded hair. As the hair is neutralized, the majority (80-85%) of cysteine bonds are reformed back to cystine bonds. The new curl pattern is then locked into the hair permanently.

Relaxer - A chemical applied to the hair to straighten excessively curly hair.

Relaxer Testing - Checking the action of the relaxer in order to determine the speed at which the natural curl is being removed.

Semi Permanent Hair Color - Hair color formulated to last from 4-6 shampoos. It penetrates the hair shaft slightly. depending on the porosity of the hair. Uses no peroxide for development.

Strain - The degree or percentage of stretching of a hair fIber under certain degrees of stress or force.

Stress - The pull or force put on the hair during combing, brushing, styling or simply stretching while detennining elasticity of hair.

Sulfur Bonds or S-Bonds - The cross bonds or links that are very strong and can only be broken by a strong chemical.

Temporary Hair Color - Hair color which coats the cuticle and is formulated to last only from shampoo to shampoo.

Tensile Strength - The amount of pull or pressure that can be induced on a single hair fiber without breakage.

Texture - The general quality of hair, as to coarse, medium or fine; the feel of hair.

Thio (Ammonium Thioglycolate) - Chemical hair relaxer.

Touch-up - The application of relaxer to the new growth of the hair, being extremely careful not to overlap onto previously treated hair.

Trichoptilosis - A splitting of the hair ends, giving them a feathery appearance.

Trichorrhexis Nodosa - Disease of the hair shaft initially characterized by nod-like structures eventually leading to shredding and weakened areas along and within the hair shaft, leaving the cortex fibers exposed and fraying. As the hair is combed and styled. the implements snag the damaged sites. causing more extensive damage and eventual breakage. Common causes are mechanical, thermal, chemical and/or environmental (i.e. sun) damage.

Upper Mantle - The outermost surface of the hair shaft (cuticle).

Virgin Hair - Hair that has had no chemical services or damage from natural factors such as wind, sun, etc.

In 2000, I co-authored an article for C&T magazine regarding the scalp irritation potential of lye and no-lye relaxers. The article includes our findings from a study based on comfort/discomfort evaluations from salon patrons.

Compared to Caucasian hair, African-American hair is extremely curly and it's physical configuration resembles a twisted ribbon. It is highly unmanageable. very difficult to comb-both wet and dry-and hard to style. More fragile than Caucasian hair, this excessively curly hair breaks more easily when stretched or vigorously brushed and combed. Thus, African-American hair requires both special handling and hair-care products that are differently formulated than those for Caucasian hair.

Madam C. J. Walker: A Beauty Product Pioneer

Madam C. J. Walker was an early 20th century beauty product pioneer. She was born under the name Sarah Breedlove to ex-slaves in 1867. In her early life, she worked in both the cotton fields and the kitchen. In 1905, after marrying newspaper sales agent Charles Joseph Walker, she adopted his name and developed expertise in manufacturing hair goods and preparations.

Walker soon launched her own business, designing cosmetics and hair-care products for black women. From this business she became one of the nation's first female millionaires. Using her success for the good of others, she earned a reputation as a philanthropist to African-American institutions such as the NAACP, Tuskegee Institute and Bethune-Cookman College. She died in 1919.

In 1998, the US Postal Service issued a stamp commemorating her achievement as an African-American businesswoman and philanthropist. The image on the stamp is from a circa 1914 photo that was used extensively by Walker's company for publicity purposes, in advertising, and on its products.

The Development of Relaxers

In the early 1900s, an African-American domestic worker, later known as Madam C. J. Walker, invented pomade using a combination of oils (see sidebar). This pomade revolutionized the hairstyling practices of African-American women and made excessively curly hair softer, shinier and somewhat easier to comb. However, the pomade did not straighten the hair. African-American women still could not achieve styles like those worn by Caucasian women.

When formulating products, the termination of hair damage (minimization at the very least) is my primary concern. Take a look at an article I wrote regarding the causes of hair damage, how one can prevent it, and various cures/remedies for it:

HAIR DAMAGE: DEFINITION

Hair damage is essentially any condition whereby one or more of the hair structures, (cuticles, cortex, medulla, etc), are physically or chemically altered to the extent that they are unable to return to their original state. Examples of damage are:

Cuticle Loss and/or Erosion
Cuticles were designed by nature to protect the delicate inner structures of the hair, retain moisture and reflect light. They are configured like partially overlapping roof shingles, and on healthy hair, they are very tightly aligned.

When damaged, cuticles can become cracked and frayed. Some of the keratin material, (of which cuticles are composed), can dissolve and disintegrate, making the hairshaft thinner. In severe cases, entire portions of the cuticle layer can be removed altogether.

Longitudinal Rupturing
With extreme damage, the hair shaft can experience a massive crack along its length, damaging the cortex and medulla. The rupture leaves the hair fiber open and unprotected.

Fibril Disintegration
With excessive damage, the strong proteinaceous fibers of the cortex are weakened and often disintegrate. The fibers fray and give the hair shaft a ragged, unstable alignment.

EVIDENCES OF HAIR DAMAGE
The byproducts of hair damage include the following:

Loss of Elasticity & Tensile Strength
Elasticity is a measure of a hairs' ability to stretch and recover, without breaking. On average, untreated excessively curly hair should be able to stretch about 50% of its length before reaching its breaking point. When hair cannot be extended to this degree without snapping, it has lost some elasticity and tensile strength.

Breakage
Breakage is closely related to loss of elasticity. It occurs as weakened hair experiences mechanical manipulations. Even simple combing and brushing can cause significant breakage on a damaged head of hair.

Porosity/Moisture Loss
Porosity and moisture loss are close relatives. Porosity is a measurement of the ease to which the hair accepts and releases moisture and other substances. For instance, the more porous the hair, the easier it is to " take up" coloring solutions and the easier it is to air - dry. The healthier the hair, the more difficult it is for chemical solutions to penetrate and the longer it takes to air - dry the hair. Moisture loss occurs because the hair is more ready and willing to let the natural moisture escape from the inner fiber into the atmosphere. Healthy hair is well able to maintain its moisture levels. Both porosity and moisture loss are a result of cuticle damage. Simply put, the cuticle layer is no longer tightly aligned and is no longer providing adequate coverage to the inner hair shaft.

Dullness
On healthy hair, shine reflects upon a tightly aligned cuticle layer. Hair damage results in a dismantled cuticle surface, making it difficult, if not impossible, for hair to shine.

Brittleness
Hair becomes brittle when it has lost a significant degree of moisture. Cuticle and cortex damage and the porosity that results from such damage are the fundamental reasons that hair loses pliability and becomes straw-like in feel and appearance.

Splitting of Ends
Split ends are essentially longitudinal ruptures at the end of the hair shaft. Once split, these ruptures tend to travel up the hair shaft. And, because they expose the inner structures, split ends are typically dry and quite brittle.

Excessive Tangling
Hair that has suffered cuticle injury and damage to inner structures may be very difficult to comb. The frayed fibers interactions nagging, tugging and pulling one another. Both wet and dry combing is impeded.

Fly-Away Fibers
Damaged hair carries a more negative electrostatic charge than does healthy hair. Negatively - charged hair strands repel one another, producing fly - away strands, and makes hair difficult to manage over all.

Limpness/Lack of Body
Hair that has been damaged of ten won't hold curls well and does not have the
fullness and volume known as "body."

CAUSES OF DAMAGE
The sources of hair damage are many, and range from very ordinary practices and
procedures to very extreme ones.

Ultraviolet Exposures
Every day exposure to the sun affects the hair, even though it is seldom attributed to the damage of excessively curly hair textures. Ultraviolet rays from the sun can fuse the cuticle layers together, and this fusion causes the hair to be less elastic and more prone to mechanical breakage.

Mechanical Manipulations
Mechanical damage can occur when hair is combed, brushed, blown dry or styled. Infact, virtually any physical manipulation of the hair that entails even minimal tugging and pulling can damage hair. The damage caused, however, can range from slight to extreme depending on how carefully the hair is handled.

Chemical Processing
Chemical straightening, permanent waving and permanently coloring all irretrievably
alter the bond structure of hair. Whenever the bonds are affected in this way , the hair loses a degree of its tensile strength. Also, hair becomes prone to moisture loss since chemical processes lift and penetrate the cuticle. Once the cuticle layer is penetrated in this manner, some degree of moisture loss is typical.

Thermal Styling
The high temperatures of modern-day blow dryers, curling irons, flat irons, crimpers, straightening combs, can easily deplete hair of moisture. When coupled with chemical relaxing, heat styling may result in extreme hair dryness.

Shampoo
For many, the fact that simple shampooing can damage the hair is still a difficult one to accept. Nevertheless, it's true. A shampoo with a pH level higher than 5.5 will cause a pH imbalance and "rough- up" the cuticle layer. It will also strip much, if not all, of the natural oils from the hair. This sets the stage for mechanical damage because a stripped, rough cuticle layer sets the stage for considerable combing and styling damage.

Additionally, the natural intercellular cement, (which tightly binds the fibers of the cortex layer and accounts for much of hair's strength) can be dissolved by shampoo detergents to some extent . With repeated shampoos with a high pH, strong detergent formula, the break down the intercellular cement progresses. Under these circumstances, the cortex may be damaged cortex and the hair is weakened.

HAIR DAMAGE: PREVENTION

Ultraviolet Exposures
To prevent the sun's ultraviolet rays from fusing cuticle layers together, avoid exposing hair to intense sunlight. Hats or scarves should be worn when out in sunlight for extended periods of time. Also, when selecting conditioning and finishing products formulated for excessively curly hair, look for those that contain sunscreen ingredients. Such an ingredient is Para-Amino-Benzoic-Acid, (PABA).

Mechanical Manipulations
Excessively curly hair is relatively fragile, so great care should always be taken when handling it. Some suggestions are:
• Use only detangling/conditioning-formula shampoos for cleansing excessively curly hair.
• Comb hair gently, especially when it is wet. To detangle, a wide-tooth plastic or rubberized comb is the only choice.
• Deep condition the hair after shampooing, without fail. When time is of the essence, you may use a leave-in conditioner, but only one formulated specifically for African-American hair textures.
• Avoid using hair-tightening barrettes and rubberized elastic bands. Minimize the use of curling irons / heated rollers, especially when hair is not really clean. Also, ask clients to sleep in a silky cap, scarf or on a satiny pillowcase to avoid damage caused by abrasion. A silky scarf is also a good idea to prevent abrasion when wearing woolcoats and jackets. Ask your stylist to prescribe the hair care products you should use between salon visits.

Chemical Processing
• See your stylist for chemical straightening, permanent waving and permanent coloring treatments.
• The next time you see your stylist for a relaxer treatment, ask for Affirm® FiberGuard Conditioning relaxer system. It has been proven to help maintain the tensile strength and elasticity of hair during chemical processing:

Thermal Styling
To prevent extensive damage to the hair and significant moisture loss:
• Air dry chemically - treated hair if it is possible to do so and still achieve the desired style. It is best for the hair.
• If you must blow-dry, do so only after excess moisture has air-dried or been blotted from the hair. Blow drying from a soaking- wet stage stretches the hair severely and can result in extensive fibril damage, including breakage.
• Thermal style only after hair has been treated with an intensive conditioner, preferably one rich in moisturizers.
• Apply a light coating of a good thermal styling product before heat styling. A very small amount of a silicone laminate is excellent for thermal styling; it helps the styling comb/ brush glide through the hair easily, seals cuticles to reduce inter fiber snagging, and produces a great shine.
• Use only the degree of heat necessary. Implements with thermostatic controls should always be used. And, remember, properly relaxed hair requires minimal heat to achieve smooth, sleek styles.

Shampoo
• Cleanse only with high-quality conditioning/ detangling shampoos, formulated especially for excessively curly hair. Make sure that the pH of the shampoo is properly balanced, within the range of 5.5 and 6.5.
Avoid detergent formulas that strip the hair of its natural oils. Ingredients like those in the alkyl sulfates group, such as sodium lauryl sulfate, are harsh detergents. Shun shampoos containing such harsh detergents.
• While shampooing, try not to tangle the hair. Massage the shampoo into a rich lather throughout the hair and scalp, using the pads of your finger tips, not your fingernails. Be sure to rinse the hair thoroughly to remove all traces of shampoo.

HAIR DAMAGE: TREATMENTS
As indicated earlier, once hair is damaged there is no real way to completely restore it. Cutting is the only means of ridding hair of damaged areas. There are ways,
however, to make hair look, feel and handle more like healthy hair. Conditioners
play a key role in this pursuit.

The most widely - used categories of conditioners are as follows :

1. Leave-In Conditioners
These conditioners are applied sparingly after shampooing and left on the hair.
Some provide effective UV protection. Modern-day versions are lotion-like in
consistency and are quite excellent. They can moisturize dry hair, detangle, help
protect against thermal and mechanical damage, impart sheen and give hair a
soft texture.

2. Deep Penetrating Conditioners
Commonly known as substantive or intensive conditioners, this category of products penetrates the hair shaft to deposit moisturizing and/ or proteinaceous substances. They typically are left on the hair 20-30 minutes for the deepest penetration, and work to repair damaged areas, moisturize, detangle and eliminate static charge.

3. Reconstructors
Reconstructors are heavy-duty conditioners designed specifically for severely damaged hair. They typically contain micro- and macro- proteins to fill in cracks and ruptured areas on and within the hair shaft. Reconstructors may also contain polymeric agents to tightly bind the structures of the hairshaft together for the purposes of fortification and combability.

4. Moisturizers
Moisturizing Conditioners hydrate dry brittle hair and correct moisture imbalances.

5. Laminates
This category of conditioners is designed to: a) seal the cuticle layer for a glossy sheen, b) ease combing and c) ward off the style-wrecking affects of high humidity.

6. Thermal Styling/ Blow Drying Lotions
Used prior to heat styling, these conditioners help protect the hair from heat damage, reduce the force required to comb or brush the hair during blow-drying, provide sheen and eliminate static charge.

7. Finishing Conditioners
This category includes natural oils, cremes, mineral oil -based hair dressings, oil sheen sprays and laminate sprays. Such products are used to enhance sheen, manageability, and the oil-based products are sometimes used to lubricate the scalp.

8 . Pre-Chemical Conditioners
Pre-chemical Conditioners are sold as integral parts of some relaxer systems. These conditioners are especially formulated to deep condition and repair the hair during chemical processing. Depending upon the brand, a Pre-Chemical Conditioner will also leave hair with an extraordinarily silky texture and luster.

9. Post-Chemical Conditioners
Post-chemical Conditioners are also sold as integral parts of some relaxer systems. They work to sustain and augment the deep conditioning treatment that the Pre-Conditioner effected. Post-chemical Conditioners also help normalize and re-balance the pH of the hair.

On the chart that follows, the various types and evidences of damage are listed.
Specific treatments are recommended. While these listings are not exhaustive, they
provide a good starting point for addressing the special needs of damaged hair.

hairdamage.pdf

Here's a study that I helped author in 1995 regarding the physical properties of African American hair and how it differs from Caucasian hair. Enjoy.

Scientific innovations in chemical treatments that alter the texture of African-American hair, as well as a plethora of style trends, have spurred phenomenal growth in this
segment of the hair-care market throughout the past three decades. The level of research & development by manufacturers in the area of product formulation has steadily elevated; yet, a great deal remains to be learned about the unique physical properties of African American hair. Compared to the vast body of research regarding Caucasian hair, the study of African-American hair is at best limited.

A Review of Research

In published studies, J. Menkart et al, Epps et al and Kamath et al reveal that some important research has indeed been conducted on the physical properties of highly curly hair. The efforts of these researchers and the results of their studies serve as a starting point for the further study of African-American hair. Other general observations about hair, such as those pertaining to static charge (Jachowicz and C.R. Robbins) and theories about moisture content, serve as a springboard for advancing the study of African American hair.

Shape: Menkart and Wolfram report that African-American hair has a physical shape resembling a twisted oval rod, whereas Caucasian hair is more cylindrical. They found evidence of this when they made elliptic comparisons or hair cross-sections. Using a formula in which the minor axis is divided by the major axis, Menkart and Wolfram
determined that African-American hair has a ellipticity index of 0.56 and Caucasian hair has an index or 0.7.1. The tensile-strength data gathered during this research shows that the breaking stress of African·American hair (1.24 g/denier, a unit of fineness equal to the fineness of a yarn weighing 0.05g for each 450m of length or 19 for each 9000m.) is less than that of Caucasian hair (1.41 g/denier). The yield stress for African-American hair, however, is slightly higher (0.46 g/denier VS 0.42 g/denier).

Kamath and Hornby studied the fractographic behavior of African-American hair to view both major and minor rods at low levels of extension. They examined the ellipticity of
hair fibers and reported ellipticity indices of 1.89±0.083 and 1.0 to 1.4 for African-American and Caucasian hair, respectively. In this study, the ellipticity index was calculated by dividing the major axis by the minor axis, which is the reverse of the formula used by Menkart and Wolfram.

Combability: Epps and Wolfram conducted combing comparisons between African-American and Caucasian hair using combability techniques used by Garcia and Diaz. Garcia and Diaz report that African-American hair, due to its curliness, is much more difficult to comb than Caucasian hair. It was also determined that African-American hair is easier to comb wet than dry.

Using a scanning electron microscope at a magnification of about 300X, Kamath and Hornby also observed that African American hair display frequent twists with random reversals in direction and pronounced flattening. During fractographic study, the break stress of African-American hair was reported to be (0.123 ± 0.016) 10^9 N/m^2 when dry (65% relative humidity [RH]) and (0.119 ± 0.010) 10^9 N/m^2 when wet. The breaking elongation for wet and dry (65% RH) fibers was found to be 44% ±3% and 27% ± 5%, respectively.

Formulating superior products while maximizing shelf life is a difficult balance that each formulating chemist must achieve. Here's an article I wrote for ShopTalk magazine in 1993 regarding the shelf life and proper storage of salon products.

Shelf Life and Storage of Salon Products

Like many consumer products, certain salon products are best used during a particular increment of time. This interval of time is called shelf life, and it describes the period wherein a product can be used with maximum effectiveness and safety. Within this article, the average shelf life of various salon products will lie discussed. First, let's tum our attention to the primary determinants of shelf life.

Factors Which Affect Product Shelf Life

I. Product Development

A. Stability

The formulation of high-quality hair care products is both an art and a science. As experienced hair care chemists well realize, the way a product is formulated has a profound impact upon its shelf life. Expert chemists strive to develop products that meet or exceed the market standards in terms of performance, and always with the objective of achieving product stability. Stability refers to the maintenance of a products' basic character, an enduring uniformity of its blend and the preservation of a homogeneous state. An unstable formulation is many times evidenced by product "separation", whereby the ingredients become unblended. Both environment and gravity are key factors in stability. As a product ages, the environment (i.e. temperature, exposure to air, etc.) may cause the product to separate. Gravity also affects a product's life in that, over time, the weightiest ingredients (such as water) will segregate towards the bottom of a mixture, as others (like oils) are relegated to the upper pans.

B. Ingredient Selection

Certain ingredients are by their very nature more stable than others. For instance, animal proteins. particularly when used in high volume, are less stable than some other types of conditioning agents-because· of their proclivity for bacterial growth. And too, emulsifiers, used in formulas containing both oils and water, can be relatively ineffective in ensuring oil/water miscibility, (a uniform blending of these two components), over extended periods of time.

The Average Shelf Life of Salon Products

SHAMPOOS
Shelf Life: 1 to 2 years

Well formulated cleansing and lightly conditioning shampoos have relatively long shelf lives. Detangling shampoos, however, are more difficult to stabilize from a product development standpoint because of the amount of conditioning agents utilized. The shelf life of detangling shampoos may therefore be as limited as six months to a year.

CONDITIONERS
Shelf Life: 1 to 2 years

After-shampoo conditioners will last a year or two. If the formula contains an unusually high amount of organic material such as animal protein, the life of the product may well be much less due to an increased susceptibility to bacterial growth problems.

RELAXERS
Shelf Life: 1 to 1.5 years (Sodium Hydroxide)
2 years (Guanidine Hydroxide)

Of the most widely used relaxers, those formulated with sodium hydroxide are the most challenging to formulate. An improperly formulated relaxer can have a shelf life of six months or less. Well developed formulas will work effective for up to a year and a half.

 
Guanidine hydroxide relaxers are a little easier to stabilize from a product development standpoint, and can be effectively used for up to two years. (If the creme portion of the relaxer system seems a bit dry on the upper surface, do not assume that the product is beyond '" shelf life. This is characteristic of relaxers in this category, which contain
calcium hydroxide.)

PERMANENT WAVES
Shelf Life: 6 to 12 months Curl Boosters
6 to 12 months Rearrangers
1 year Neutralizers

The chemicals used to formulate permanent wave systems are very difficult to stabilize, primarily because the active ingredient, (ammonium thioglycolate), readily reacts with air. This is called "oxidation" and describes a process that neutralizes or deteriorates the active chemicals contained in curl boosters and rearrangers.

These two components of perm systems, which are critical to the straightening and curl formation of the hair, can easily lose up to 15% to 20% of potency due to ordinary exposure to the air. This potency loss significantly slows down the chemical reaction of the products.

Oxidation will occur to some extent with any exposure to air, even with the simple act of opening the container in which the booster or rearranger is packaged. More often, the process of oxidization is greatly accelerated by the bulk packaging typically used for professional perming products. By using large packaging, which is often demanded by stylists, the packaging is opened and closed on multiple occasions as clients are serviced. Also, more air is left inside the containers, called "head space", with each successive use of the products. (For this reason, the perms sold in the general market, (for curling naturally straight hair), are almost always packaged in single-use kits.) Due to the reactivity of ammonium thioglycolate to the air, compounded by the use of bulk packaging, the shelf life of curl boosters and rearrangers is generally six to 12 months.

Neutralizers, which do not contain the highly reactive ammonium thioglycolate, are effective for up to a year.

HAIRDRESSINGS
Shelf Life: 2 years 100% Oils
1 to 1.5 years Cremes

The 100% oils are the hairdressings commonly referred to as "greases" or "pomades." They have a relatively long shelf life. Cremes, however, (i.e. oil moisturizers and creme hairdressings), are oil and water emulsions and have a shelf life of up to one and one-half years. This is because over time, the oil will strive to the top of the emulsion, leaving the water at the bottom. Depending upon formulation, cremes may even have a shelf life as short as six months.

FINISHING PRODUCTS
Shelf Life: Up to 2 years

Most of the products in this classification have relatively extended shelf lives. Styling Gels maintain performance integrity from one to two years, depending upon the formula. Setting Lotions, Oil Sheen Sprays, Holding Hair Spray sand Laminates can last for two years or more.

HAIR COLORINGS
Shelf Life: 1 to 1.5 years

In a similar fashion to that described for permanent wave products, the active chemicals in many hair colorings are highly sensitive to the air. With oxidization, the ability of the color product to deposit within the hair shaft is impaired. To help prevent oxidization and the resultant potency loss, many such products are packaged in single-use bottles.

Proper Product Storage

Generally, salon products should be stored at room temperature, away from heat, direct sunlight and extreme cold. Storage of products in refrigerators is not recommended and products should never be placed in a freezer. To protect products from excessive sunlight and store products near windows.

Some Tell Tale Signs of Shelf Life Expiration

The following properties will signal that a product is beyond its shelf life:

- Product Separation
- Foul Odor (likely caused by bacterial contamination)
- Loss of Product Viscosity (product becomes much thinner)
- Build up of Viscosity (product becomes much thicker)
- Rancid Odor (characteristic of natural oils that have been exposed to air and/or sunlight for extended periods)

What if a Product is Used Past its Shelf Life?

At best, a product that is beyond its shelf life will not perform as effectively as it did initially. Product application may be impaired and the way it reacts to the hair may very well be hindered. At worst, the product could cause harm to a client. In the case of an unstable or separated sodium hydroxide relaxer, the result will either be ineffective straightening or extreme causticity. This is because once a relaxer separates, the oils rise to the top and the water, containing most of the sodium hydroxide, descends to the bottom of the jar. When the stylist applies the upper portion of the mixture, the hair will be treated with the most impotent part of the relaxer. When the lower portions in the jar are used, the relaxer is much too strong and will likely damage the hair and bum the scalp. Stylists must not think that merely mixing the contents of a separated relaxer will again stabilize the formula because it won't. Relaxers must be blended at a temperature of 80 C under scientifically-controlled conditions in order to get a stable mixture.

Another instance in which a client may actually be harmed by the use of product, which is beyond its shelf life, is when bacterial growth has occurred. Should a contaminated product, wherein the preservative system has broken down, be inadvertently rinsed.
into a client's eyes, severe infection and/or impairment may result.

How is a Professional Cosmetologist to Know?

Other than being on the lookout for the "tell-tale" signs listed above, there is really no good way for a cosmetologist to know precisely the age of a product and its shelf life as estimated by the manufacturer. Manufacturers normally code each product so that they will know precisely when it was manufactured. and via their scientific tests, manufacturers can also predict the shelf lives of their various products. (By law, companies must also retain samples of each batch of product; which they produce for three years, in order to track the impact of product aging within a controlled environment.) Should you have a specific question regarding the shelf life of a certain product, contacting the manufacturer may be the best avenue to pursue.

Dr. Ali Syed is president and master chemist of Avlon Industries. Melrose Park, IL

Happy May Day everyone... I dug up an old article I wrote for ShopTalk journal back in Febuary/March of 1990 on the right way to condition hair. I talked about several causes of hair damage and then the types of conditioners one could use to repair the damage. Cheers:

We, as hair care professionals, are engaged in the art and science of beautifying hair; a notable pursuit that has been around for centuries. Modern techniques of hair beautification range from the simple acts of shampooing, combing and brushing, to chemically treating hair with relaxers, permanent waves and/or hair coloring.

Whenever excessively curly hair is modified to a relaxed (straightened) or permanently waved state, we gain better control of hair; but in the process, we end lip damaging the hair to some extent.

There are four basic causes of hair damage: mechanical (combing/styling), shampooing, weather and chemical treatments. Each of these causes will be discussed further in future issues of ShopTalk.

Hair care professionals, whether they're stylists or chemists, are always trying to find ways of eliminating or at least minimizing the effects of hair damage. The most effective weapon against mechanical, shampooing and weather-related hair damage is proper conditioning. Damage caused by chemical treatments, especially over-processing, cannot be reversed by any kind of conditioning treatments. However, such damage can be minimized with certain state-of-the-art conditioning relaxers and permanent wave systems available in the marketplace.

PROPER CONDITIONING

What is meant by the word "conditioning?" Basically, conditioning means attempting to restore or maintain the tensile strength of hair so that it can withstand the effects of combing, brushing, shampooing, weather and, to some extend, chemical treatments. It also involves the giving of certain cosmetic properties representative of healthy hair.

The following properties of hair are the goals and evidences of effective conditioning: Ease of wet and dry combing; elimination of static electricity; minimal hair loss during wet and dry combing; soft and silky feel; minimization of porosity; extra sheen (due to the tight realignment of cuticles); improved body, and enhanced manageability. Hair chemists have an ongoing mission to formulate conditioners that address these hair properties.

It's important to keep in mind that conditioning needs of hair fibers vary according to their texture. For example, fine hair requires increased body, while coarse hair can use added softness. It's apparent, then, that one type of conditioner cannot be used on all hair textures with the best results.

Conditioners containing excessive amounts of proteins, such as reconstructors, should be used only on fine, limp hair or badly damaged hair. Conditioners containing softening agents, humectants and highly concentrated emollients, such as creme conditioners and moisturizers, should be used on medium to coarse hair or hair that is very dry.

To achieve a maximized result, sufficient amounts of conditioning agents must penetrate deep into the cortex of the hair. This occurs only under one or a combination of the following circumstances: an elevated pH, heat and time.

ELEVATED pH

The higher the pH level of hair, the more widely open are the cuticles. Although hair is in its most vulnerable state under these conditions, the opportunity for conditioners to penetrate deep into the cortex layer of the hair is at its greatest. (When cuticles are closed, it is difficult for conditioners to penetrate in this way. If they do, and extended amount of time is required.)

When relaxers or permanent wave solutions are applied to hair, the pH becomes very high (about 13.0 with relaxers and 9.5 with permanent waves). Some premium brands have protective and restorative conditioners built right into the chemical systems so that they can go to work in the hair, when they can do the most good.

Even when the chemicals are first rinsed from the hair, the pH declines only partially (down to about 10.0 with relaxers and 7.0 with permanent waves). The hair is still alkaline and the cuticles remain partially open. This represents the second best opportunity to condition the hair once again before completely closing the cuticles with neutralizing shampoos or solutions. But remember, conditioning at these times can only be accomplished with systems that provide such features.

HEAT

As the temperature of hair is increased, the greater the possibility of conditioners penetrating the cortex. As shown in Figure 1, penetration is much greater when hair is about 60-degrees centigrade than when it is at the normal environmental temperature of 25-degrees centigrade. A temperature of 60-degrees centigrade is easily achieved at the medium setting of an electric heat cap.

TIME

As the time of contact between hair and the conditioner increases, the degree of conditioner penetration into the cortex increases. As Figure 2 illustrates, the conditioning action continues to be productive up to 25-30 minutes. After that time, absorption reaches its maximum. It is safe, therefor, to conclude that conditioners should be left on the hair, with a plastic cap, for 25-30 minutes. The use of a hood dryer will enhance the conditioning effect.

cond1.pdf